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Woodstock Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agitation T,TR 
Bloody Bucket T,TR 
Cave, The T,TR 
Do What! T,TR 
Gratefully Dead T,TR 
Inverted Iron Cross TR 
Wimpy Whiner Way, The T,TR 

Woodstock Rock Rock Climbing 


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Location: 39.3313, -76.8728 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,875
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John Kelbel on Jun 13, 2013  with updates from peterkd5bwt
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BETA PHOTO: Woodstock front and center

Use discrestion while on the approach via the tracks (CSX property) MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Forty foot tall and covered with many jug filled overhangs, the majority of the climbs start at the 5.8 level. The cave on the left side offers the longest roof problems in the Patapsco extending up to 24 feet long. Woodstock rock attracts both top-rope climbers and boulders and offers a few good leadable climbs for the experienced trad climber. The rock faces north and seldom sees the sun making for an ideal late spring to early fall destination. One draw back is after a long soaking rain the rock face will stay wet for about 2 days as water seeps out the numerous cracks systems.

Due to the extensively established climbs and many undocumented variations there is no room to add new bolt lines nor are there any bolted climbs on the crag. The local climbing heritage is quite adamant toward having a low impact on our limited climbing areas.

Guidebooks
Climb Maryland by Mark Indy Kochte is the most comprehensive resource for Woodstock rock.

For top systems anchors
you will need up to 50 foot long systems to reach the many large trees at the top of the rock.

History
Climbing started at Woodstock some where around the late 60's and here is a list of the original routes and names that are known Do or Die, Gratefully Dead, Bloody Bucket, The Wimpy Whiner Way, and Mother F. This group of climbers included Howard Kornblum, Joe McManus, Rob Savoye, Scott Mculrg, Ed Bollack and likely a few more. In 1990 John Kelbel started climbing at Woodstock and worked on cleaning the rock off and adding more routes. In The following years Woodstock saw just occasional visit and it wasn’t until 2010 that its popularity in both top-roping and bouldering took an impressive jump seeing almost weekly visits.

Getting There 

Located on the Howard county and Baltimore county line where Woodstock Rd turns into Old Court Rd, there is a gravel parking lot owned by CSX opposite the Woodstock Inn at address 1415 Woodstock Road, Woodstock, MD 21163.
A word about the bar, it tends to cater to motorcyclists and horse back riders. No kidding there's even a hitching post in the gravel parking lot which sees use particularly on weekends, so it's advisable NOT to park in front of it or right beside it.
There are two ways to approach the cliffs. The classic approach is to just walk ~800' down the tracks and then follow the short path straight up to the rocks at a white utility shack, but this is a blind corner on the tracks and you risk the ire of trains or train police. Better to make a small bushwhack through the back of the gravel lot and follow a faint trail up a short steep section about 30' away from the tracks and then proceed at that level and about 50ft inside the woods from the tracks until reach the base of the crag.

Climbing Season

For the Patapsco State Park area.

Weather station 0.4 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Woodstock Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Woodstock Rock:
Gratefully Dead   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   
The Wimpy Whiner Way   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   
Bloody Bucket   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Woodstock Rock

Featured Route For Woodstock Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo

The Wimpy Whiner Way 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Maryland : Patapsco State Park : Woodstock Rock
Climb the corner to the roof making a long reach to the end of the overhang for a horn and then another horn. Climb the short crack above and follow the low angle crack out left to the top. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Maryland

Photos of Woodstock Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Woodstock
BETA PHOTO: Woodstock
Rock Climbing Photo: The Woodstock Cave.
BETA PHOTO: The Woodstock Cave.

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