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Erin pulling through crux on p. 2
This route has a bit of an alpine feel on friable/chossy rock. I liked the route for the sense of adventure, the good rock and pro is there when you really need it. Don't forget your helmet!
Pitch 1 - Climb past 2 bolts on low angle but friable/chossy rock, then stem your way up chimney to pillar until the rock gets solid, then climb pillar to base of chimney(100 ft.)
Pitch 2 - Stem up to face with varnished rock, sling horn or place small nut before comitting to chossy rock and climbing pillar with no pro. Stem through chimney before reaching good varnished rock and pro. Pull through varnished rock to get on top of pillar. (80 feet)
Pitch 3 - Climb up through wide, steep crack to summit (30 Feet)
Descent - Class 3 down into wash on backside of of wall. Follow the wash north until wall turns into hill, then go up and over hill back up to the big pipe and road.
Standard rack up #4 Camalot. Small nuts are quite useful.
By Jordan Perlmutter
Mar 27, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
This route is....adventurous. The St. George guidebook lists almost no info besides the fact that it's all on gear, and I wish I had known about the R rating. This is NOT a good route for new leaders to 5.8 or trad. The second pitch especially has some airy run-outs and horrifically fragile rock. Though the line is obvious from the ground and is technically climbable, it's probably not worth your time.