REI Community
Woodchuck Ledge

Select Area...
Caterpillar Wall, The 
Diamond Wall, The 
Gravity Wall, The 
Jurassic Wall, The 
Main Cliff, The 
Playground, The 
Upper Tier, The 
Zonkers Wall, The 

Woodchuck Ledge Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.99766, -71.2 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,665
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: nhclimber on Apr 27, 2009
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Sam working the mission

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Awesome cliff with climbs of all grades. South facing and you'll probrably be alone. Screaming Yellow Zonkers is here, that alone should make it a destination.

Getting There 

From Conway, drive Passaconaway road (west, towards the Albany covered bridge) till you see the cliff on the right. Drive around the bend till you see a pull off on right with 3 stones guarding the trail and a Forest Service "No camping..." sign. Hike up the old logging trail about 20 minutes and you will reach the far left side of the cliff.

Coming from the Kanc, the pull-off is about 2.6 miles down Passaconaway Rd. from the Albany Covered Bridge, on your left.

Work your way right for the various walls in order: Gravity, Jurassic, Zonkers (left up a gully a little from the Caterpillar), Caterpillar, The Diamond, and the Main Wall. The Playground is reached by taking the gully past Zonkers and continuing to scramble up and left a few minutes. The upper Tier is the left side of the Main Wall, above the Caterpillar and Diamond.

Climbing Season

For the WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) area.

Weather station 5.1 miles from here

22 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',4],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Woodchuck Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Woodchuck Ledge:
Roger's Spire   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   The Caterpillar Wall
Ace of Spades   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Zonkers Wall
Screaming Yellow Zonkers Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Zonkers Wall
Steamroller   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Caterpillar Wall
Zonked Out   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad   The Zonkers Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Woodchuck Ledge

Featured Route For Woodchuck Ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: Prepare for judgement!  Judgement Day starts benea...

Judgement Day 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : ... : The Diamond Wall
Judgement Day is pretty bad ass for the grade. Although following cracks it climbs more like a sustained face climb. There is no real crux but the climbing is pretty sustained especially through the middle section. It protect pretty well with a decent amount fixed pro supplemented with gear. This route follows a incipient system of cracks and flakes that trend diagonally from the the center of the wall to the upper left corner. Start at the base of the right facing flake/roof just right of...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of Woodchuck Ledge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Parking and trail into Woodchuck
BETA PHOTO: Parking and trail into Woodchuck
Rock Climbing Photo: The pull-off parking for Woodchuck
The pull-off parking for Woodchuck
Rock Climbing Photo: John Howard on Firebird 5.7, a route at Woodchuck ...
BETA PHOTO: John Howard on Firebird 5.7, a route at Woodchuck ...

Comments on Woodchuck Ledge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Bluemn
From: Worcester, MA
Jun 19, 2017
CONDITION REPORT 
There is a raptor closure through 8/1/17 for routes on/above the caterpillar wall to the main wall. Far right main wall routes are reportedly still open.
By matthew ritter
From: West Campton, New Hampshire
Apr 15, 2010
The parking is on the left 2.5 miles east of the Albany Covered Bridge. Coming from the other way on Passaconway Rd. the pullout is half a mile past the camping area. Park at a sign saying "Camping and fires prohibited along this road, except at capmsites," on one side, and "For a healthy environment, keep our forest green," on the other. Follow the old logging road, eventually you will see a cairn and red blazes...you have arrived!
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 1, 2011
This is a crag that could really use a good map showing the various walls and approaches. It is a fairly complicated cliff.

I've only visited this cliff once to date, but liked it. The jumbled boulder scree field below seemed like a mini version of Cannon's (much smaller, not heinous), which gave it a little alpine feeling. There was also more rock than I expected. My impression was of a good crag in a great setting. It looked to me like most of the cliff could use some TLC, upgrading old anchors and some scrubbing, but worthy of it. Be prepared for old school protection and loose rock on some of the routes. It looked to me like plenty of potential for new routing if you are in to that and willing do the work.
By matthew ritter
From: West Campton, New Hampshire
Sep 7, 2011
I agree Mark. There is a lot of climbing here. With some TLC you could spend the day at Woodchuck and crush all or many of the routes for a really rad circuit.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 7, 2011
You guys should try Steamroller- way good
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 14, 2012
I broke this cliff into areas to organize and sorted the routes. If anyone feels up to writing good descriptions and directions to some or all of the walls, please let me know and I can turn them over to you. Otherwise I will work on them slowly as I get to know them better.
By Russ Keane
Oct 23, 2015
This place is really great. It's a fun outing, with lots of climbs. The area at the top of the mountain is way cool, with climber cairns leading the way to a firepit lookout and all sorts of downlo camping spots. So gorgeous and remote.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About