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Won't Get Fooled Again 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Alex Mitchell on Jun 9, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Start using a bad undercling up to a large jug above the first bolt. The route slowly wonders to the right slightly and ends at chain anchors. You can lower through a gap in the trees without swinging back to the start.

Location 

Located on the deception ledge. First route as you are coming across the ledge besides the two 5.13s.

Protection 

9 Bolts


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By Alex Mitchell
From: Cincinnati, OH
Jun 10, 2013

For some reason someone left a piece of webbing hanging from the chains with a very rusted quick link hanging from it. The webbing is badly aged and needs to be cut off. If I had a knife I would have.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Dec 16, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Careful on this one, with the traversing nature and some tricky balancy moves near wider than average X38 bolt spacing.
By pinecone
May 10, 2015

**Loose Rock!**

We climbed this one a few weeks back. The route is highly rated in the book, but did not appear to get a lot of traffic as it was quite dirty and full of spider webs. Also, my partner accidentally knocked off a head-sized rock that came flying down ~30 feet, barely missed me and split in half when it hit the ledge. The two smaller pieces then continued to fall onto the Iron Horse Trail where they almost hit two hikers below. Yikes! Please be careful and wear helmets!

Besides the loose rock and dirt, the route is fun, lots of good holds with only one tricky move 2/3 up the route. Some bolts are a bit run out for x38, but its solid climbing, if you are comfortable at the grade. There is a bolt for the belayer which is nice, because the ledge is quite small.

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