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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Art Gran and Eric Stern (1959)
Page Views: 2,410
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 17, 2008  with updates from MojoMonkey

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the ground. Start on left by thos...


This is a fun route that climbs the face between Middle Earth and Wisecrack.

P1 - Begin on the far right side of the ledge (or climb from the bottom of the slope up the fun, clean white face at 5.9ish, R/X) and move up and right to the first small overhang (old pin? - Lowe Balls helpful). Surmount it at the bolt on the right side, then step left (crux after clipping bolt, replaced in 2015) and continue up to the left side of a second small overlap/overhang. Continue up the path of least resistance to a ledge. Either set up a belay on one of the small tree ledges, or put in a couple of good pieces for a directional and traverse right to the Wisecrack belay/rappel tree.

P2 - (Note this is not P2 as described in the guidebook, it's P2 for Middle Earth) Climb the low-angle face directly up from the Middle Earth belay tree to the GT ledge and an aging pine. Be careful here - the pine is almost dead and not a good anchor.

P3 - There are three pitches of climbing from the GT ledge. From left to right, the biggest right-facing corner that starts ~25' left is Wisecrack (5.6+). The next right-facing corner, almost directly above the olde rap tree, is Bombs Away Dream Baby (5.8); it is the steepest of the three. Another 15' right is a third right-facing corner; this is Middle Earth (5.6).

From the top, rappel from trees (3x60m). It's also easy to walk just a bit north (right) to the bolted rappel line at Arrow.


Same as for Wisecrack.


G for normal route, R for direct start. Standard Gunks rack + Lowe Balls and screamer if the old fixed pin is still there under the first overhang.

Comments on Wonderland Add Comment
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By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Nov 27, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13

Fun fun route. Bolt protects the interesting crux, everything else is just fun and enjoyable.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Jun 23, 2010

I do the direct start variation, which does have small pro. You can get some placements with 00 and 0 cams next to each other in a horizontal just before the crux. However, they're below your feet when you are doing the crux move so make sure your belayer is paying attention and doesn't have a bunch of slack in the rope.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Oct 9, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I agree with the minus, it has one maybe two 5.8 moves. Very good moves though. The rest was a little uninteresting. The second and third pitches are basically the top pitches of Middle Earth, and match the lower grade of that climb better (although the roof at the start of the last pitch is arguably 5.6 or harder).
By Arch Richardson
Aug 28, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Pin is not that great, and bolt hanger is thin and covered with a blob of epoxy. I wouldn't fall on either. You can back up the pin with a cluster of rp's, but you have to trust the bolt.
By Eric G.
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Apr 22, 2013

The bolt is gross. So rusty it's bright orange.
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13

Definitely worth doing the first pitch on a crowded day. Agree with other comments on the bolt and pin, which effectively make this a potentially dangerous route. I put a small micronut a couple feet below and to the left of the pin.
By Eddie2170
From: Orange County, NY
Jul 4, 2013

Fun crux, definitely a 1 move wonder, but I enjoyed the route. One of the cracks ate my #5 bd nut trying to protect my 2nd if anyone wants to have a go at it.

The bolt is manky as hell and I definitely didnt trust it, but other than that I enjoyed the route as a warmup for Never Never Land
By cliffmama
Jul 9, 2015

Manky bolt on Wonderland has been replaced with a new shiny one by the Gunks Climbers' Coaltion with support from the Mohonk Preserve, the Access Fund and the ASCA.
By chewtoynj
From: NJ
Aug 10, 2015

I climbed it today. It's a fun climb, and the brand new bolt was much appreciated.
By Jon Po
From: Mahwah, NJ
Nov 1, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The direct start really makes this one pretty full value, although it changes the grade to about 5.9 R, maybe X? A fall from pulling up onto the ledge would almost definitely result in a 30-40 foot ground fall. Pull the roof direct (instead of skirting around left) to add a fun 5.9 move. The gear is good and it straightens the line. With both direct variations this one is quite a classic! But 5.9 R for sure.

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