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Wonderland Valley

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East Wonderland Valley 
West Wonderland Valley 

Wonderland Valley Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 4,200'
Location: 34.04013, -116.14536 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 54,647
Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on May 12, 2015
Forecast:
Tonight

38°
Sunday

77° | 46°
Monday

82° | 51°
Tuesday

82° | 48°
Wednesday

81° | 45°
Thursday

80° | 44°
You & This Area
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Peter Croft starting Figures. Photo by Bob Gaines.

Description 

The Wonderland Valley is a huge open area that is home to a wealth of quality climbs, which means that despite the hike involved you will no doubt run into others, particularly on busy weekends.

Because of the size of the area it has been broken into two separate sections:

East Wonderland Valley - Home to The Astro Domes, Foolproof Tower and Lenticular Dome and more.

West Wonderland Valley - Home to Freak Brothers Dome, Surprise Rock and The Red Obelisk and more.

Getting There 

Approach via the South Wonderland Approach, and not long after passing The Creature the Foolproof Tower will come into view on your left - this is the Wonderland Valley. Please see the individual crags for more detailed approach information and plan on 35 minutes to 1 hour for the approach depending upon the crag chosen.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.2 miles from here

119 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',53],['1 Star',29],['Bomb',3]
['<=5.6',11],['5.7',5],['5.8',15],['5.9',24],['5.10',36],['5.11',22],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Wonderland Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wonderland Valley:
Willard   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   East Wonderland Valley : Nomad Dome
Mental Physics   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   West Wonderland Valley : Lenticular Dome
Unconscious Obscenity   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   West Wonderland Valley : Lenticular Dome
Hex Marks the Poot   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   South Astro Dome : South Astro Dome - East Fac...
Breakfast of Champions   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   South Astro Dome : South Astro Dome - Northeas...
Lead Us Not Into Temptation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   North Astro Dome : North Astro Dome - Southwes...
High Strung   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   West Wonderland Valley : Foolproof Tower
Dazed and Confused   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   West Wonderland Valley : Lenticular Dome
My Laundry   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   South Astro Dome : South Astro Dome - Northeas...
Early Bird   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   East Wonderland Valley : Fat Freddie’s Cat
Solid Gold   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   South Astro Dome : South Astro Dome - Northeas...
Figures on a Landscape (aka Monkey on My Back)   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   North Astro Dome : North Astro Dome - Northeas...
I Can't Believe It's a Girdle   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   East Wonderland Valley : Freak Brothers Dome
Piggle Pugg   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   South Astro Dome : South Astro Dome - Northeas...
Astroturf   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, 2 pitches, 240'   North Astro Dome : North Astro Dome - Northeas...
Such a Savage   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   South Astro Dome : South Astro Dome - Northeas...
Middle Age Crisis   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   South Astro Dome : South Astro Dome - Northeas...
Unknown Soldier   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   North Astro Dome : North Astro Dome - Northeas...
Middle Age Crazy   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   South Astro Dome : South Astro Dome - Northeas...
Gunslinger   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   North Astro Dome : North Astro Dome - Northeas...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wonderland Valley

Featured Route For Wonderland Valley
Rock Climbing Photo: Ivan starting the crux traverse to the P1 anchors....

Figures on a Landscape (aka Monkey on My Back) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b California : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : North Astro Dome - Northeas...
A very exciting and fun route and one of the best face climbs anywhere. Bring gear for the crack on the third pitch. There are just enough bolts to make the climbing sane, but a fall in a number of places could be bad news. Make sure both leader and follower are solid 5.10 climbers as the traverse at the end of pitch one is serious for both. The 2nd and 3rd pitches are easily linked and in fact recommended. The route starts from atop a large boulder on the left side of the northeast face of the...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Wonderland Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Darin leading the 2nd pitch. April, 2006.
Darin leading the 2nd pitch. April, 2006.

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