Wonderland North Rock Climbing
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The North Wonderland (and the Wonderland in general) is the antithesis of the "bumper belay" crags found in Indian Cove. Although flat, approaches are as much as 3+ miles and 1+ hours of hiking. As such, it sees less traffic than most areas of the Park. Those who venture out will be rewarded with some classic obscure lines as well as a respite from the crowds at Hidden Valley and Lost Horse.
Use the Wonderland Trail approach (see below) for Outward Bound Slab, Cool Dome, Hidden Dome, Ellsmere Island and Gilligan's Island.
The Atom Smashers, Hooter Rocks, The Foot, Super Dome, Super Slab, Super Block, Lemon Dome, Lime Dome, The Dunce Cap, Suicide Horn, The Fortress and The Castle lie further north near Willow Hole.
There is also a small cluster of rocks just east of the parking area which include Reggie Dome, Bubba Rock, B-52 Rock and Garage Rock.
Park at the "Key's Corner" Trailhead, 1/2 mile east of Trashcan Rock along Quail Springs Road. This will be on your left at a wide right turn if you are driving from town. Most areas lie to the north and are accessed by the Boy Scout Hiking And Equestrian Trail.
Weather station 9.4 miles from here
318 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',35],['2 Stars',118],['1 Star',142],['Bomb',4]
Classic Climbing Routes in Wonderland North
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wonderland North:
Featured Route For Wonderland North
Catapult 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : The Fortress
This route is one of the best I have climbed at J-Tree. Challenging moves on solid rock for about 140' makes this a five star classic.Begin about 30' left of a vertical crack that does not reach the ground to gain a horizontal discontinuous seam after 10' of easy climbing. Traverse right on thin edges to a point where the seam ends about 10 feet from where the vertical crack begins. A 0 TCU protects committing face moves (5.11) to a huge horn. Turn the corner and ascend the flared, vertical cra...[more] Browse More Classics in California