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Wondering Chimney Route T 

Wondering Chimney Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Year round.
Page Views: 175
Submitted By: Chase Bowman on Feb 20, 2015

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Nice shelf at the end of pitch 1

Description 

This can be done in both 1 or 2 pitches. We climbed the route in two pitches due to the wondering nature and awful rope drag. The route is shaded by the trees and doesn't receive much sunshine in the later parts of the day so bring a jacket for belay or you will be cold. The technical crux of the route is the end of the first pitch where you can either make a 5.9 move over a bugle with poor gear or go the right of the bugle and do an easy chimney. The real crux of the route however is the amount of shifting large rocks. It is important that you choose your gear well to avoid ripping out a 100 lb shelf onto the belay. HELMET is required!!

Pitch 1: Start at the corner and there will be some opportunities for some larger placements until you get about 20 feet up. Then they're are some decent placements for nuts in somewhat good rock. about 50 feet up you will find a nice shelf where you can set up an anchor. The shelf is right before the obvious chimney that tops out. You will see a large rusted bolt, (not an anchor bolt, but a hardware store bolt) hammered into a horizontal crack. This is the best place to make your anchor. 5.7-5.8
Rock Climbing Photo: The anchor at the end of pitch 1. Notice the ruste...
The anchor at the end of pitch 1. Notice the rusted 8 inch long hardware store bolt hammered into the crack


Pitch 2: Move left of the anchor and place a #1 metolius TCU in a crack between a large boulder and the chimney walls. Sling that and keep moving left. Start moving up when you hit the chimney wall opposing the anchor. Once there it is a jug haul in a really cool 3.5 feet wide chimney with solid gear. You can place as much gear as you want to in both sides of the wall. After about 35 feet, you will come to a bomber horizontal crack that will take #2 to #.4 BD cams. Build an anchor here and horn the rock just above the 3 foot horizontal crack. your partner will top out from the other side of the chimney. 5.6

Location 

If you rappel down from the top of the most eastern side of the cliff you will be at the beginning of the route. The start is the obvious corner where the ground becomes walkable.

Protection 

Double set of cams from #.4 to #3 with one set of nuts with doubles in the larger sizes if you place a lot of gear. The second set of cams will most likely be for you anchor before the second pitch. Double length slings are mandatory. Bring about 12 slings for the climbing and the anchor building.


Photos of Wondering Chimney Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: crappy bolt
crappy bolt
Rock Climbing Photo: At the pitch 2 anchor right above the awesome chim...
At the pitch 2 anchor right above the awesome chim...

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