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Wonder Wall

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Wonder Wall Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 17, 2007
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Jonathan near the end of the original finish of Sc...


This is the biggest steep wall in the Conway area. The climbing here is mostly crimpy face climbing in the hard 5.10 to 5.12 range but also hosts some nice cracks, corners, flakes, roofs and more. There are even a few off the beaten path moderates if you aren't up to cranking hard but you wish to escape the crowds. Classic face climbs like Last Unicorn 5.10c and Science Friction Wall 5.11a are the real prizes of the wall.

The Wonder Wall is a huge and complex section of Whitehorse's South Buttress area between the Atlantis area and the Children's Crusade Wall. The Wonder Wall is split by 2 large horizontal ledges dividing the Upper Wonder Wall, Lower Wonder Wall, and some nice single pitch base routes below the bulk of the wall. There are only a few routes that climb the entire wall and its pretty easy to guess where those start...the bottom.

BASE ROUTES: Getting to the base of Wonder Wall is pretty easy. Just follow the trail from the slabs south past Echo Roof and Ethereal Buttress and continue past the black wall of Children's Crusade. Wonder Wall is next. If you get to a steep broken "sporty cliff" you went a little too far. Many routes here are independent single pitch routes, but some are the start of long demanding full length jobbies.

LOWER LEDGE: Above these single pitch routes is a nice ledge where some more one pitch lines start and some long routes continue from. You can access the routes on this ledge by climbing your choice of climbs from the base.

UPPER WONDER WALL: It is a bit more involved to get to the base of the lines on the Upper Wonder Wall that start from a ledge 250 feet off the ground. Either climb to the ledge using one of the routes from the Lower Wall (most of which are pretty challenging) or get your self to the base of Lost Souls on the right side of the Atlantis area. To get there, you must follow the South Buttress Trail instead of following the cliff base trail or from the base of Wonder Wall walk south to the nasty gully (don't climb the gully) move left around the small steep broken cliff and up through the woods to the base of Atlantis Area.

When you get to the base of The Atlantis Area, move to the right until you are just above a nasty gully, scramble up a 4th class section above you heading right to a nice ledge. Walk right on the ledge until you are in a cluster of trees with a slab to your right, there is an obvious bolt on it (the first bolt on Lost Souls) and on the other side of the slab will be a big gully of trees, traverse across the slab at about 5.5 and in to the tree gully, up the gully to the ledge at the base of upper Wonder Wall. To get to Last Unicorn and it's neighbors, from the right side of the ledge make another traverse about 5.4 over to a large spruce tree at the base of Last Unicorn.

Getting There 

Follow directions to Children's Crusade and continue along the cliff base. You can scramble through the woods, but getting lost sucks.

For detailed directions to the different sections of this complex cliff, see the main description above.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.8 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Wonder Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wonder Wall:
The Last Unicorn   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Sky Streak   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Science Friction Wall   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wonder Wall

Featured Route For Wonder Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: First Ascent Wonder Wall 1976

Wonder Wall 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b New Hampshire : *Whitehorse Ledge : ... : Wonder Wall
Pitch 1: 5.7r climb the slab to the ledge, double bolt anchor on ledge.Pitch 2: 5.12 Climb to the right of the anchor with thin gear till you can reach the pin, then make increasingly difficult moves into a hollow flake system. Take your time and place good gear and make an easy mantle onto the top of the flake. Climb with difficulty up and get a good nut, then a bolt. Make a HARD mantel onto a flat shelf. Now climb a shallow corner past three bolts (crux) and a pin to another suspect flake, p...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of Wonder Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: First Ascent Science Friction Wall. Looking down p...
First Ascent Science Friction Wall. Looking down p...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonathan Baldassare on Science Friction
Jonathan Baldassare on Science Friction
Rock Climbing Photo: Horrible photo and drawing. This is the bottom of ...
BETA PHOTO: Horrible photo and drawing. This is the bottom of ...

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