Wonder Bluffs Rock Climbing
Indian Cove from Wonder Bluffs. Photo by Blitzo.
The Wonder Bluffs is a less visited crag with a collection of variable quality cracks from 5.7-5.10b and some nice view of the surrounding area. Easterly-facing so plan on morning sun and afternoon shade.
Start your approach from the vicinity of King Otto's Castle
; there is some parking nearby. Cross the road and skirt Condor Rock
on the right (west end) aiming for a boulder filled gully that leads to the base of the east-facing wall.
A little more effort is needed to reach this wall but the views from the base and lack of crowds make up for it. Plan on roughly 20-30 minutes for the approach.
Climbing Season For the Indian Cove Campground area.
Weather station 6.5 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Wonder Bluffs
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wonder Bluffs
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wonder Bluffs:
Tom Plumb 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Conniption 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Wonder Bluffs
Pencil Neck Geek 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b California
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Wonder Bluffs
The Wonder Bluffs is an east-facing wall split by many crack systems, some of which are quite good. Near the far right side of the wall and 5' right of an obvious left-facing corner is this straight-in crack which starts thin (crux) and slowly widens higher. The descent is either a walkoff to the climber's right or a rap from bolts located in the middle of the wall. A nice place to escape the mobs found at so many easily approached crags. This is a good wall to work on crack skills with seve...[more] Browse More Classics in California
BETA PHOTO: Condor Rock and the Wonder Bluffs, Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Overview with some of the route lines
Wonder Bluffs after snow. Photo by Blitzo.
Wonder Bluffs. Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Wonder Bluffs. Photo by Blitzo.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 28, 2011
This is a great crag with many enjoyable and quality routes. This north facing crag receives full shade with little traffic making this a nice spot to head out with a partner or a circus of friends. The approach is straight forward as you hike up the boulder field approaching the base.
Now that we know it's fine lines, in the shade and lacks traffic here comes the bad part......limited anchors make this crag a bit of a hassle. Aside from Pencil Neck Geek which has pseudo fixed anchors (slung bollard with rings) the rest of the crag is devoid of an easy decent. The scramble is time consuming and requires J-Tree descent finding skills. Exit climbers right wearing your tight crack shoes under a chimney, past chockstones, down a gully, through some catclaw to the formation floor then head back up through more boulders to the base.
Thinking of making a day of it? Consider bringing an extra rope and gear to construct a fixed rap line. At the end of the day, draw the short straw for who needs to break it down and hump it back down to the base.
By Richard Shore
Jan 3, 2012
There is a bolted rappel station located in a waterchute to the right of "Bluewind" as of 01/2012. This is approximately at the top of the line "Negro Vortex". Makes for a quick and easy descent for all routes left of "Pencil Neck Geek".
This is a wonderful crag for the 5.10 crack climber.