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Women in Love 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Various--Ed Webster, Henry Barber FFA 1978
Page Views: 6,011
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Feb 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Ed Webster and Henry Barber on the FFA of Women in...


Women in Love, a Joe Cote aid route, is one of the classic crack climbs in the NE. Steep, clean and exposed climbing with airy belays. Ratings go back and forth for the crux pitch--12a is probably appropriate.

Pitch 1. Easy but awkward climbing leads to a fierce thin section (11d). There used to be a tree to get past the last crux. A good ledge is just above. 70'

Pitch 2. Continue up the easier finger crack to an exposed hanging belay in the vicinity of the top of the Beast Flake (5.11b). 70'

Pitch 3. A short section of crack/corner climbing leads to a thin boulder problem past two bolts right on the arete trending left. Finish up an awesomely exposed flake that lands you on the ledge below the tourist overlook. (12a) 70'


Off the right end of the long tree-covered ledge, find a nice sloping ledge with an obvious right-leaning finger crack. The best approach is to traverse the ledge across to the route. You can also climb WILD which is two somewhat unevenly protected pitches (11b, 10c)starting left of the Beast.


Plenty of finger-size gear. The route protects really well

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By john strand
From: southern colo
May 28, 2008

WAY good. About as good a climb as any in New England. I think the WILD start is also good but a little run-out and maybe dirty now.
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
May 31, 2008

I haven't been on it in 7 years, but the Wild Women start was neither dirty nor run-out at that time. It certainly seems to be the way to start Women In Love.
Put it all together and it's easily one of the best routes on the cliff. Has anyone ever replaced the bolt on the crux pitch. I remember it being old and in a bad location for the free-climbing. It is what it is though, I guess, with former aid routes.
By Rich Brereton
From: Pownal, ME
Jun 8, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Both the first and the third pitches have technical, sequence-dependent cruxes that would make Women in Love a proud onsight. I feel the first pitch is the real route crux.

What a great climb!
By CCliffe
Jul 16, 2011

Super good climbing. done as wild women, i think better than the prow and just as sustained. lots of pitons/bolts (for just women in love i only placed 3 pieces) and great exposure.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 18, 2011

WOW- sounds kinda fixed now. I barely remember any fixed gear except on the last pitch.
By Nick L
Oct 9, 2011

Re fixed gear: only 1 fixed wire low on P1 and 2 pins on P2 (one of which is cracked). Hardly a clip-up...
By patrick donahue
From: Gunnison, Colorado
Jun 30, 2012

what does this go as for an aid route grade wise?
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jul 1, 2012

c2 (easy, expect some awkward placements) second pitch maybe a touch funky,
By Air Alexy
Jul 9, 2013

The second piton on the 11b pitch is broken, as of July 4th weekend. Would make this pitch scarier, for sure.
By samuel von hammerstien
Oct 3, 2013

pins fixed.

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