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The Double Clutching Wall
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11:11 (AKA "Welcome to the Waterfall") T 
Block Party T 
Checkin' the Oil T 
Checkin' The Oil Direct T 
Chronic, The T 
Comin In Hot T,S 
Crux Deluxe T 
Double Clutching T 
Double Helix T 
In a Blunt T 
Kool Whip Crackle Fizz, The T 
Rude Awakening T 
Super Chronic T 
SwitchBlade T 
Terminal Mocha T 
Thin Faith T 
Wolverine T 


YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: D Bloom
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, winter spring
Page Views: 1,675
Submitted By: Floater Bloom on Mar 11, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Joel finishing his scrap with one of nature's most...


This route has a long history, Back in 1993 Eric Muedt and John Govi hand drilled the one bolt on the route. Many years later a rumor surfaced that this climb was called White Lie and rated 5.11+. A couple of years ago I was curious about the line so I got on it. Much to my surprise the route was way harder and had no anchors. Luckily we had hardware that day and a project was born. After a few seasons and several partners the route was sent at the end of February 2013. Definitely one of the hardest pitches at The Waterfall and super quality.


Start on the Chronic, traverse right at 25' past a lone bolt, and climb second dihedral on the right.


(3) #00, (1) #0, (2) 0.3, (2) 0.4, (2) 0.5, (1) 2.0

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By Abel Jones
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 10, 2013

Nice Dave... Thought that thing had to be 13 based on the effort you were putting into it while floating up everything else in the area. Can't wait to check it out some day.
By Casey Niggemyer
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Dec 14, 2014
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

I would add a red slider to the rack for wolverine. While the climbing that it protects is probably only 5.10, it is the only gear There and would be quite run out without it.
By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Jan 25, 2016
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

I agree with the slider beta. Not crucial, but certainly nice. Small nuts can be useful too depending on personal preference. What a route! It's hard not to spray about this thing but will keep my words limited to allow a fresh experience for others.

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