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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bernard Wolfe
Page Views: 72
Submitted By: gus on Mar 10, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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mixed route on right end of Wolf Wall.


right end of Wolf Wall


plug gear up left facing crack, through face until 2/3s way up and encounter 4 bolts on face through roof

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By bernard wolfe
From: birmingham, al
Sep 15, 2009

who names these things? not me and i put 'em up. anyway....super cool of the better ones on this end of the cliff......a tall one with a dizzy roof sequence......and some seemingly chossy material you have to move least you think you do....truth is, its all pretty good. love this route....its got a big route feel. This is perhaps the nicest section of cliff on this end of the SCC parcel.....but gets hot....and poison ivy-ish in summer

the 'left-facing crack' is actually a wide dihedral-like feature filled with vertically aligned fractures and plates. It looks chossy. The climb starts with an awkward pull up onto a bulge using a crack as jam and side-pull. Climb and stem up the plate-filled dihedral to a cave-ish roof. Once up under the roof contort your way out....challenging and solid gear placements, wrestle your way up outta the roof and onto the face (a crux), following a crack, up into the choss-seeming zone i spoke of in the earlier paragraph. Boulder up to a position under the final roof, and go strong to pull through it (another crux). After the roof are fairly straightforward moves to the top.

Tall and airy. The roof is spooky sometimes....disorienting...because it actually tilts downward a little, throwing off your equilibrium perhaps. I dunno, i always get spooked up there
By bernard wolfe
From: birmingham, al
Sep 15, 2009

hey i also did a pretty cool...maybe 5.8+ route to the right of this recently...within the last year. up some slab to overhanging portions to a thin, attractive finger crack to a stance, move into a big, broken up looking chimney/dihedral feature that you think will be yuck but is actually nicely solid and takes you to the top. Great exposure and views. Pretty classy although when at first glance you'd shake your head and walk on

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