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Milk Creek (aka Wolcott Navajo Band - East)
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Wolcott Great Roof aka Bob Scarpelli Crack T 

Wolcott Great Roof aka Bob Scarpelli Crack 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: ??? on the original FA
Season: possible to climb year round...
Page Views: 651
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on Oct 5, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Wolcott Great Roof.

Trestle and CMC areas are off limits. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Located on the right side of the crag is the obvious ROOF. Thin crack leads up to 5.10 hands out the roof until it widens at its end (crux). Grunt and squeeze out the lip to use the tree above for the anchor.

Protection 

Thin gear to 4". Use the tree above for the anchor.


Photos of Wolcott Great Roof aka Bob Scarpelli Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Steeper.... Drew Spaulding jamming all 4s.
Steeper.... Drew Spaulding jamming all 4s.
Rock Climbing Photo: Thrutching out the lip, fist-sized crack.
Thrutching out the lip, fist-sized crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting steep....
Getting steep....
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the stunning corner.
Starting up the stunning corner.

Comments on Wolcott Great Roof aka Bob Scarpelli Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Martin Harris
Feb 3, 2015

There is a foot hold at the right edge of the roof that has appeared in the last few years, making this route much easier. I hope it came about naturally.
By Drew Spaulding
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 3, 2015

Martin, do you really think it's a "new" edge? I only climbed this route once and remember the hardest part is the awkward, flaring fist crack above the far end of the roof. It looks like my feet are on some edges out near the end of the roof... do you think I'm over-rating the difficulty? Let us know what you think the rating should be....
By Matthew Ryan Jones
From: Minturn, CO
Jul 25, 2015

I worked on this thing for a couple years before I got it clean. I also think there is a foothold that has appeared under the roof, just before the flare. I also think this route is 11d, and it's pretty widely accepted by Eagle County locals to be a 12, but after sending, I'm not sure I could agree with that. I do however think that the hardest part of the route is after the flare, where any suspect footholds could not be utilized. On another note about this fantastic line, it's called the Bob Scarpelli Crack around here, because the first ascentionist tried to get a hold of Bob to come climb this thing when the crag was being developed. No one is certain who got this roof first, but I think the culprits may have also put a few other lines up in the area and are long time Vail locals.

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