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WM: Zealand Road / Notch

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Mount Oscar 
Sugarloaf 
Whitewall Mountain (East side of Zealand Notch Itself) 
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From MP's sister site:

WM: Zealand Road / Notch  Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.24724, -71.50079 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 23,142
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M Sprague on Aug 25, 2015
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Zealand Valley from the east lookout on North Suga...

Description 

Mt Oscar provides trad climbing with bolt protection when needed on fairly clean rock. Shady base and an easy approach make for a nice summer day.

Whitewall Mountain is a truly near-alpine "adventure" cliff. Located on the East side of Zealand Notch itself. It is in an Eastern Wilderness designated area so no bolts, in fact no permanent anchors or even protection. While I haven't checked, it would surprise me significantly if there is cell phone coverage there, so act accordingly.

Middle Sugarloaf also provides some high-quality routes. Those that date to the mid-1980's and before are described in Ed Webster's 2nd Edition (out of print, but try Amazon) "Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of NH". Many new lines have been put in...mostly trad with the occasional bolt. For now, let's just leave it as an adventure place not too far from the road.

(Approach: Park at the same locan as for Mt Oscar (1 mi. uip Zealand Rd) Walk up across the bridge and the Sugarloaf Trail is on your right, at the "T-Junction" (about 3/4 mile in) turn left to Middle Sugarloaf and its great views.
There are also shorter climbs on North Sugarloaf. (take a Right at the "T")

Getting There 

From the North Conway area take Rt 302 through Crawford Notch, pass the Bretton Woods ski area, and in about 4-5 miles take a left into the WMNF Zealand campground area on the Zealand Road.

From the North Woodsgtock/Lincoln/Cannon area, take Rt 93 and then bear right onto Rt3 towards the town of Twin Mountain. Take a right at the stop light onto Rt 302 South (East?) and in about 2-3 miles turn right onto the Zealand Road.

NOTE: The GPS LOCATION for this "Area" is about mid-way up the Zealand Notch Road, about 1/2 way fromn Rt 302 to the parking at the end of the road.
Rock Climbing Photo: WM: Zealand Road / Notch area original map from vi...
WM: Zealand Road / Notch area
original map from visitnh.gov/information/about-...

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.0 miles from here

49 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',11],['5.7',7],['5.8',14],['5.9',9],['5.10',3],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in WM: Zealand Road / Notch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for WM: Zealand Road / Notch :
Sea of Green    5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 300'   Sugarloaf : Middle Sugarloaf / Main Fac...
Steve's Twilight   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Sugarloaf : Middle Sugarloaf / Main Fac...
Crescent aka Oscar Mayer   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Mount Oscar
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla"   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   Mount Oscar
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route)    5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Sugarloaf : Middle Sugarloaf / Main Fac...
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers    5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Sugarloaf : Middle Sugarloaf / Main Fac...
Oscar the Grouch   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad   Mount Oscar
The Perez Highway   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   Mount Oscar
Bipolar Brain Flush   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   Mount Oscar
Caveat Emptor   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Mount Oscar
Rock Candy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 180'   Sugarloaf : Middle Sugarloaf / Main Fac...
Sea of Green Direct Start   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Sugarloaf : Middle Sugarloaf / Main Fac...
Moose Spirit   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Mount Oscar
Randys Super Fine Triplishes   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Mount Oscar
Oscar's Last Stand   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   Mount Oscar
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor's Direct Finish    5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Mount Oscar
Coffee Achievers   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Mount Oscar
Three Bubbas Trilogy   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Mount Oscar
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in WM: Zealand Road / Notch

Featured Route For WM: Zealand Road / Notch
Rock Climbing Photo: STARTing up P1 of Bolt-in-the-Sky

Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  New Hampshire : WM: Zealand Road / Notch : ... : Middle Sugarloaf / Main Fac...
A nice link up. I supposed I could have called it "Bolt By the Numbers" (Joke) P1 is 5.8 and well protected with bolts. P2 is 5.7+/5.8- The first 20 ft of P2 used to be 5.7+/5.8- "PG13/R-ish" but the crack's been cleaned for a gear placement and Webster's pin replaced. P3 is hard to rate. The first few feet off the belay is easy (5.5 ?), but there's no pro until the corner. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of WM: Zealand Road / Notch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face
Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face

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