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WM: Raven Rocks

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Fortress (north rock), The 
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WM: Raven Rocks Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.11211, -93.37245 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 17,421
Administrators: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dakota from North Dakota on May 4, 2015
Forecast:
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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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After years of wondering if anyone else would appr...

Only use Raven Road approach MORE INFO >>>

Description 

What is Raven Rocks?
Standalone sandstone towers. “Deep” water soloing. Year round climbing. Free Camping. Fixed steel lower-offs. And tons of easy to moderate sport climbs!

In Missouri?? No way!
Believe it! Beginner and moderate Missouri climbers rejoice to finally have their own crag stacked with quality 5.6-5.9 climbing. Nearly all of the anchors are fixed with steel lower-offs which can be easily accessed for top-roping. More difficult routes can also be found here ranging from 5.10-5.11 leaving plenty of options for most climbers.

The area is made up of 3 separate formations along the Pomme De Terre arm of Truman Lake. Goose Island(south rock) and The Lighthouse(middle rock) are home to the moderate climbs. While The Fortress(north rock) houses some more challenging routes.

What about rock quality? Is the sandstone like Arkansas?
The sandstone here is very special for Missouri but also very soft. It forms very similar to what you might find at the North Forty but is not of the same quality rock. After a rain, give it a few days to dry before climbing again.

Year round? Like I won't melt to death in the summer?
The north sides of both Goose Island and The Lighthouse provide shade nearly all day long. If you're still feeling warm then do a few laps on the water traverses until you fall in the lake!

And the free camping?
38.095508, -93.339817 Primitive camping can be found at Raven Winds. Look for the wooden sign on the south side of Raven Road a mile east of the intersection of Crabtree Ave. No utilities. Do not leave anything behind here and do not give them any reason to frown on climber camping. Keep the party docile.

Per the owners of Raven Winds Campground: "we do not charge a fee to stay because we are in the process of rebuilding it and starting a business but we do ask that out of courtesy to our family and to our neighbors that you would call and make a reservation. We have a sign posted at the campground that says this but here is the number you can contact to make the reservation: 8163737132. Also, we do have neighbors who are very particular about trespassers so we do ask that you avoid private property and stick to the campground and public land for your adventures unless you have asked permission from the landowners of course."

Ok awesome is there somewhere I can stock up on supplies?
Sure ain't! Make sure you come in with everything you'll need for a day or weekend of climbing/camping. If you forget something, the nearest gas station or general store is 30 minutes back north on US-65.

Getting There 

From Warsaw take US-65 South for 14 miles. Head West on Raven Rd (dirt). Continue on Raven Rd for less than 5 miles until it stops at the lake.


Approach (1.25 mi): 38.098271, -93.372827

Park off the road. If it is dry, hike the shore line north. If it is wet, hike high in the tree line following the shore north. If you got a canoe, boat north from here or from across the narrow lake arm. Plans for a nice easy trail are currently being worked out. Until then, the shore is easiest way when possible.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.5 miles from here

24 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',4],['5.8',6],['5.9',4],['5.10',4],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in WM: Raven Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for WM: Raven Rocks:
Firestar   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 35'   Goose Island (south rock)
Todd the Bod   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, TR, 40'   Goose Island (south rock)
Pirates of the Carabiner   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 50'   Goose Island (south rock)
Rockabilly   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, TR, 40'   The Fortress (north rock)
Birds of a Feather   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 50'   The Lighthouse (middle rock...
Lighthouse Traverse   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 150'   The Lighthouse (middle rock...
Arkasouri   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 45'   Goose Island (south rock)
Snake and Eggs   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 45'   Goose Island (south rock)
Captain Bird Beard   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 40'   Goose Island (south rock)
Arrowhead   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 55'   The Lighthouse (middle rock...
Turtles of a Shell    5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 55'   The Lighthouse (middle rock...
Raven Lunatic   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 45'   Goose Island (south rock)
Native Tongue   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 45'   The Fortress (north rock)
Ancient Axe   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, TR, 45'   The Fortress (north rock)
Nevermore   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, TR, 45'   The Fortress (north rock)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in WM: Raven Rocks

Featured Route For WM: Raven Rocks
Rock Climbing Photo: South side start of the Lighthouse Traverse

Lighthouse Traverse 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Missouri : WM: Raven Rocks : The Lighthouse (middle rock...
One of the two “must do” traverses over the water. Climb sustained 5.8 with occasional great rests from one shore line to the next....[more]   Browse More Classics in Missouri

Photos of WM: Raven Rocks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sometimes your shoes just have too much friction a...
Sometimes your shoes just have too much friction a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Young Zion climbs the beautiful "Pirates of t...
Young Zion climbs the beautiful "Pirates of t...
Rock Climbing Photo: South side start of the Lighthouse Traverse
South side start of the Lighthouse Traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: The surreal view from Raven Rocks.
The surreal view from Raven Rocks.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sweet features!
Sweet features!

Comments on WM: Raven Rocks Add Comment
Show which comments
By Camel Fiddle
May 4, 2015
A compact guide (4 pages) complete with all directions and routes as of 5/4/15! Raven Rocks Mini Guide PDF
By Peter Chollet
From: Kansas City, Missouri
May 27, 2015
The primary approach may be off limits now. Some climbers were turned away by property owner recently. The crag is NOT part of his property so you can still take Raven road to the lake and bushwhack north along the shore.
By Derrik R.
Jun 1, 2015
I checked it out for the first time 5/23. I used the primary approach but never saw the property owner. Is there anyone in the area that can confirm the status of the primary approach? Had some pretty cool routes and I plan on visiting again soon.
By Aaron W
Jun 6, 2015
If parking is the issue a person could park at raven winds and bike 2.4 miles to the standard approach. The alternative approach really sucked at least with the water level how it is. It took myself and another party I saw that day 1 and half hours to walk the alt approach.
By Kyle Kerns
Jun 22, 2015
The other day we found a note on our car saying anyone caught even walking across the farmer's land will be charged with trespassing. We parked on the road in front of the farmer's land and walked in across the field and over the fence.
By Trafe Brewer
Sep 20, 2015
Was climbing there this weekend. Great routes, but watch for copper head snakes! while ascending the south face of the south rock I came across this little guy in a hold.
Rock Climbing Photo: Copper head in the rocks!
Copper head in the rocks!
By JeffLivingInKansas
Oct 18, 2015
Getting to the rocks by the lake edge is not especially easy and requires about an hour over pretty rough outcroppings and a tree jam. Going through the woods didn't seem much better (and resulted in chiggers or maybe a rash caused by something not native to my hometown).

The camping site mentioned here, Raven Winds, is private and I was told by the son of the owner that they nominally charge a fee to camp. There is a phone number on the sign at the entrance.

Finally, I think I left a pair of almost new La Sportiva Mythos at the top of The Fortress. If anyone finds them, I'll pay the return postage and a small reward.
By Christina1995
Apr 3, 2016
Hi everyone! My family owns the campground that was mentioned in this post and the land in the surrounding areas. I just wanted to stop in and give you a little information and some quick tips. We do own the campground and as of right now we do not charge a fee to stay because we are in the process of rebuilding it and starting a business but we do ask that out of courtesy to our family and to our neighbors that you would call and make a reservation. We have a sign posted at the campground that says this but here is the number you can contact to make the reservation: 8163737132. Also, we do have neighbors who are very particular about trespassers so we do ask that you avoid private property and stick to the campground and public land for your adventures unless you have asked permission from the landowners of course. As I said before we are trying to start up our own business that will have a lot of other exciting stuff for you guys to enjoy! We'd love to include the rock climbing in our advertisements and we'd love for you all to help us figure the best way to advertise and describe it as we are not avid rock climbers ourselves. If you could contact me we would greatly appreciate it! My email is pace1995@gmail.com. I look forward to hearing from you all. I'm so glad to see everyone that has found and enjoyed our little piece of Heaven! We will try to keep anyone interested in our business updated on it.
By Kirk Blakley
Apr 25, 2016
Raven Rocks is a great climb if you are needing to get outside and don't want to drive more than 3 hours from the KC/Lawrence Area. There are enough routes to keep you busy for a day, maybe two, but most are fairly easy and short lived. Every route we climbed was top rope accessible (about 6) so feel free to save yourself some energy and leave some gear behind. All you really need is a 50 meter rope. We used the alternative approach, about 1 mile of uneven loose rock with 1/4 mile of cliffs to navigate closer to the towers, The last section can be a little tough with a 40 pound pack on, so pack smart. Be aware of snakes, we saw 5 on the trail and one rattle snake on the rocks themselves, so some caution is required when both climbing and hiking. One benefit of the alternative approach is that it is the end of a public road, so parking a car and leaving it for a day or two is no worry. Just park your car a bit off the road and pack all your gear out to the rocks. There is a great campsite just a short walk up the hill from the first tower, just follow the trail. Not sure if this is private land or not, but wouldn't expect and complaints because of the proximity to the shore. Overall Raven Rocks is a great weekend getaway. Check the weather before because a warm day will allow you to swim, and cliff jumping from the lighthouse tower was an unexpected joy. If you are planning on doing some intense sport climbing then take the time and drive to Arkansas. Routes are rated in the 5.10-5.11 range, but that is pretty generous. Most routes are pretty mellow and only have about 20 feet of true vertical walls and generous holds. If the weather is nice and you don't have a ton of time, it's more than worth the drive.
By Linda2427
Jul 17, 2016
Just wanted to let everyone know that they can not cross Honeycutt property.
there was 6 people here yesterday and the law was called anyone going across the property will be charged with trespassing.

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