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WM: Kancamagus (Central)

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Bartlett- Haystack 
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WM: Kancamagus (Central) Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.04936, -71.37788 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 40,502
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M Sprague on Aug 24, 2015
Forecast:
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Yeah baby! Adam getting the on-sight

Description 

Rock Climbing Photo: ... and topping out!

... and topping out!
Rock Climbing Photo: The incredible crack of Green Peace

The incredible crack of Green Peace
The Central Kancamagus Area is the largest geographical White Mountains region created here, which makes sense with much of the climbing traditionally thought of as relatively back country. It runs from Table Mtn. and Bartlett-Haystack around Bear Notch Rd in the east, through the beautiful Sawyer Pond basin north of the Kanc. then west past The Captain to include Bondcliff in the Pemigewasset Wilderness.

In reality some are barely back country with BH, Table, Mount Huntington and the NE crags of Greens approachable in an hour or less of hiking, which shouldn't scare off any but the most feeble legged. The rest of Greens (1-1.5+ hrs) depending on crag and the Owls cliffs 1.5+ take a bit more work. The Captain (2-3 hrs) and Bondcliff (9+miles) retain the outback feel.

Each of the areas has its individual flavor, but share in that they are all granite. Greens and Owls around Sawyer Pond are probably the most “civilized”, with mostly bolted anchors and relatively well cleaned routes of all types. The Captain, with its beautiful steep slabs, has traditionally been developed as a ground up area. Bondcliff is more of a semi alpine area of questionable rock and little to no fixed gear, offering adventure and open views. It has been climbed all over, but purposely left by those who know it mostly unrecorded to retain the wilderness character.
Rock Climbing Photo: so psyched to hand drill!

so psyched to hand drill!
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug Burnell near the top of "The Old Smokey'...

Doug Burnell near the top of "The Old Smokey's Return". Bottom of the flake provides a good protection spot.

Getting There 

Access to the Central Kanc crags is from all points of the compass, sometimes changing with the season, so see the individual areas for detailed approach descriptions.

Owls Cliff, Bartlett Haystack and Table Mountain are approached from Bear Notch Rd, which connects the Kancamagus Hwy to the town of Bartlett. Be aware that the middle of BNR is seasonally closed, sometimes late into the spring.

Greens and The Captain are best approached from the north off Rt 302 via Sawyer River Rd (seasonal closures). If the river is low and you have a bike, it is probably faster to get to The Meadows Slabs of Greens directly off the Kanc.

Bondcliff has a 9+ mile approach (one of the more backwoods cliffs of The Whites!) and can be reached via the western end of the Kanc or Zealand Rd to the north.
Forest road closure status (not always accurate)

Rock Climbing Photo: WM: Kancamagus (Central) area original map from vi...
WM: Kancamagus (Central) area
original map from visitnh.gov/information/about-...

Climbing Season



Weather station 11.1 miles from here

136 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',56],['2 Stars',50],['1 Star',19],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',11],['5.7',9],['5.8',20],['5.9',24],['5.10',34],['5.11',11],['5.12',24],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in WM: Kancamagus (Central)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for WM: Kancamagus (Central):
Shapeshifter   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags
Zig Zag   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Right Cliff : The Well Balanced Slabs
Southern Migration   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   Mount Huntington
The Jolly Green Giant   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags
Big Red Shoes   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags
The Beanstalk Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags
Stewart's Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   Greens Cliff : The Main Wall
Farewell Ronald McDonald   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags
Blurry Eyes   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   Greens Cliff : The Main Wall
Happy Camper   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags
Br'er Rabbit   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags
Mountain Minor   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 115'   Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags
I'm Still Here   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   Greens Cliff : The Main Wall
Yeti Beats   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags
Puttin' In Time   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   The Captain
Green Party   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 195'   Greens Cliff : The Main Wall
Steady Yeti   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 90'   Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags
Crack of the World   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 200'   The Left Cliff : RGC - Open Spaces Area
Greenpeace   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Greens Cliff : The Main Wall
Bigfoot was Here   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in WM: Kancamagus (Central)

Featured Route For WM: Kancamagus (Central)
Rock Climbing Photo: Yeti Beats - Phil entering the midsection. The lin...

Yeti Beats 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Central) : ... : The Northeastern Crags
This is a link up of Steady Yeti into the top of Mountain Minor that may be even better than the original routes. Beautiful finger and hand crack climbing up a vertical wall of peach colored granite.Stick clip the bolt at the start of Steady Yeti by coming in a bit on the ledge from the base of Bigfoot. Figure out the tricky sequence to move past the bolt to gain a horizontal where you can place a .75 Camalot with a shoulder sling out left. Finger pad edges get you up to the start of the crack. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Comments on WM: Kancamagus (Central) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Aug 18, 2017
North and slight East of Sawyer Pond, on the edge of the Sawyer Pond Scenic Area is a ridge that looks like it has a steep, south facing rock exposure. I'm not aware of any marked trails out there. Know if there's anything to it, Mark?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 18, 2017
You look right across at it from the NE crags of Greens. They look like potentially nice slabs, but I haven't ever hiked over to them since there is so much to do at Greens that is more than just slabs. They are also very close to the pond so I think power drilling may be an issue and potentially obnoxious (though I am not sure an hour of hammering per bolt is really less disruptive than a quick 30 sec blast with my drill)

There are lots of nice slabs in NH. What we need is more steep. It sounds like a lot of the new potential is in ME, it is just a little far for me to drive regularly. 5 pitch steep schist, so I heard, but those N Conway and ME boys like to keep things quiet.

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