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Wizard's Sleeve 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 375
Submitted By: Trevor. on Nov 11, 2013

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Seasonal Raptor Closures.


This climb goes up a dihedral, goes left at a roof, and has an interesting thin face section leading to a chain anchor.


The fully bolted route left of Kip to a Handstand.


5 or 6 bolts to a 2 chain anchor. Optional medium cam placement below the roof

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By Russell Fogle
From: Boise, ID
Jan 1, 2015

Isn't this route you are referring to actually called "Swallow," originally a trad line with top rope anchors before being bolted in 2012? If so, it is also not the "first bolted route to the left of Ajax and 409," there is the 5.11 "Kip to a Handstand."
By CHopwood
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 6, 2015

Almost right Russell. Swallow is a trad line that goes up the same dihedral, but then you pull the crack out the right side of the roof to the Kip anchors. Wizard Sleeve traverses out the left side of the roof and continues with some more face climbings, until it finishes at its own anchors.

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