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Trilogy Buttress
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Along Came a Strider S 
Frodo Lives S 
Gollum's Column S 
Lord of the Slings S 
My Precious T 
Nine in Black S 
Ranger Walk T 
Return of the King S 
Shadow and Flame S 
Shards of Narsil S 
Unknown name S 
Wizardly Way S 

Wizardly Way 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jim and Christian Knight
Page Views: 1,253
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Nov 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Trilogy Buttress Middle Face 1 Lord of the Slings ...


Either start at the one-bolt belay anchor to the left of a small tree, or from a more-or-less flat spot on some rocks up and to the left from the small tree. Climb up onto a ledge and clip the first bolt, then continue on up on positive edges through four more bolts. After the fifth (last) bolt bear right around the tree.

The most difficult bit is topping out to the right of the tree; the moves aren’t really that hard, but many of the holds you reach for first are crumbly.


This is the left bolted route on the middle (2nd pitch) face of Trilogy Buttress.


5 bolts, 1 bolt anchor.

Photos of Wizardly Way Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Hero Stance" Belaying from the top of  ...
"Hero Stance" Belaying from the top of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Walt leading the second pitch on Trilogy.
Walt leading the second pitch on Trilogy.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lee Jensen belaying Perin Blanchard on Wizardly Wa...
Lee Jensen belaying Perin Blanchard on Wizardly Wa...

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By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Sep 8, 2009

Not a fan of this pitch for a few reasons: The first bolt is ridiculously high, making falling before then a very serious no-no. If I had known the first bolt was that high I would have taken some trad gear or something. It just didn't make sense. Also, as I was climbing above the last bolt it wasn't clear to me which side of the bush to top out on (I guess I was dumb enough to not have read Perin's description which said to go right). The bolt is smack in the middle underneath the bush. I went left and found nasty, crumbly choss and scary moves. I was also not impressed with the single ring anchor at the top. Why not put two in??? I backed it up with a crappy slung horn.
By James Garrett
Sep 8, 2009

Exactly what I was thinking....kind of scary.
By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Sep 8, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Yeah, you actually have to make a move to get up to that first bolt too, it's not just a scramble. You could definitely fall and hurt yourself. Going left of the bush also presents some danger because the rock their is just awful and will crumble to bits. Then finally, not only is there only one ring anchor, but it took Tristan forever to find it. Kind of strange.
By Nic Hoggan
From: Provo, Ut
Jan 18, 2010

After my partner led this pitch and found only the single-bolt anchor (we didn't have anything else to make any other kind of anchor), we decided just to lower him off, pull the rope, and retreat to some shade. It was at that point we learned a valuable lesson about friction and what it does to climbing ropes that run over sharp quartzite. Two hours and some great improvisation later, we finally got our rope down. If you climb this pitch, your exit is up, not down!
By Tyson Taylor
Mar 31, 2011

There's a green C4/dragon placement right before the bush, It's shallow and flaring but it gives some piece of mind and utility when belaying followers up. I was told that there were gear placements nearer the bolt but could not find them. Sling the small tree, use a super long sling on the bolt (greater than 4 feet) and add the cam to the mix cause who knows how well that little bonsai is in there.

I totally fell after the first bolt, hit the ledge and pitched over it head first. After falling, it felt harder than 5.7-8, could have just been my rattled nerves though.

Be careful at the top as there are still some large stuff that can come off one such piece came loose after testing it for a cam placement.

Lord of the Slings pitch two is directly below the single anchor bolt on the lower ledge. Tread carefully on the traverse to your next pitch.

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