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Wizard of Ooze 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 505
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Aug 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Robert Machina starting up the first pitch.


A nice line up the South face but maybe a bit more exciting than one would expect. The Rock&Ice topo calls it "sandbagged", and indeed, 5.7 route-finding may be tricky.

The first pitch climbs a direct line up the east side of The Wizard, a pinnacle-like formation mid-way up the wall. A piton down low adjacent points you in the right direction. A good belay stance is found at the top of the Wizard.

The second pitch traverses out right towards a lone 1/4" bolt. A few variations exist here, but generally, one works up from this point and then traverses back over to the left to a belay stance below a large cleft in the roof above. If you end up too high, you can traverse left directly under this roof with good pro and make an airy turn around a corner (5.9) to get into the corner system which leads to the top.

The last pitch works up the wide corner system to the summit.


Locate this route by finding "the wizard", a pinnacle like formation midway up the wall. The descent is found by scrambling east on the south side of the summit and looking for a deep gully where rap-anchors are easily visible. Anchors are a mixture of bolts/chains/webbing of mixed vintage, but generally ok.


Ample placements exist on the 1st and 3rd pitches. the second pitch is a bit trickier depending on how you traverse and where you end up for the belay. Directly under the roof is an interesting low-density crust over the granite, which makes for easy, but tenous climbing, because it doesn't feel very solid.

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By Ian Harris
From: Las Cruces NM
Dec 19, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route. On the second pitch, protection was interesting up to the bolt. After the bolt I went slightly right finding solid holds, then up to a small ledge with a cactus on it. I then traversed straight left. Pro here is somewhat spaced out depending on how high you go before traversing. There are some loose blocks and flakes on this traverse so tread lightly. I belayed from a nice finger up to hand sized crack right under the roof and before the airy turn around the corner. Overall I climbed a huge backward C on this pitch.
By Marta Reece
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jul 28, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The thirds pitch is on some of the chossiest rock I have seen anywhere in the Organs and I would avoid it. However, a three-star climb can be made by linking the Wizard of Ooz (up to the 1.4 inch bolt) and Yellow Brick Road. See my comment under Yellow Brick Road.
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Nov 10, 2014

I believe the 1/4 inch bolt has been upgraded - nice work!

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