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Wizard and Glass 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tony Morris 1995
Page Views: 546
Submitted By: Creed A on Jun 5, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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In Arkansas, even slab has roofs!

Description 

A rarity! A hard slab climb in Arkansas. The rock is bomber, the bolts are well spaced, and all the clips are made from good holds.

For shorter people, this route will have two cruxes: first above the 2nd bolt and again after the 4th or 5th bolt. Tall people (over 6 ft) can bypass the first crux by reaching to a jug, but they will have to figure our the delicate second crux.

Location 

Past the seasonal water fall, past the Gracious Grant area. This is the large gray slab in the center of a rock corridor.

Protection 

6 lead bolts, two fat rap bolts for the anchor (on a small ledge below the roof)


Photos of Wizard and Glass Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jamie Strong balancing her way through the second ...
Jamie Strong balancing her way through the second ...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is me at the second bolt. I could reach the j...
This is me at the second bolt. I could reach the j...

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By Alex Zucca
From: University Heights
Dec 23, 2016

Bring a long sling (at least 240cm) if you plan to set up a TR after leading. The anchors are far back on the ledge.

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