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Redgarden - Tower One
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Without A Net 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Eric Johnson, Todd Felix
New Route: Yes
Season: all
Page Views: 1,650
Submitted By: EDJ on Jun 11, 2014

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  • Description 

    This is an excellent vertical outing up a beautiful section of the cliff. First envisioned as a headpoint, this route is destined to become a neo-classic with the addition of bolts.


    Begin with the traditional 1st pitch of Vertigo (5.9). Where the second pitch begins to steepen, place a good cam and head out and up to the bolt on the right. Four more bolts with a few optional pieces of gear lead to a horizontal. Either traverse left to the Vertigo ledge belay or bust 5.10 moves through the small roof(or step right then back left) and clip the first bolt on the last pitch of the Doub-Griffith. Proceed to summit on this climb. You get bonus points for finishing on the new Schlauch Direct, 5.12a, 2 bolts on the arete. It is a mega 70m pitch!


    5 bolts plus a standard Eldo rack. A 0.5 tri-cam is perfect in a pocket between 3rd and 4th bolt. A #4 cam is also nice to have at the horizontal break at the top.

    Comments on Without A Net Add Comment
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    By EDJ
    From: Eldorado Springs, Colorado
    Jun 11, 2014

    Thanks to ACE/FHRC for facilitating the new route process in Eldo. There are some gems still out there!
    By Steve Sangdahl
    From: eldo sprngs,co
    Jun 11, 2014

    Nice job, Eric! This is a great addition to that particular chunk of rock. Definitely 5.11+ on a TR. SS
    By Todd Felix
    Jun 11, 2014
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

    Thanks to Eric for his vision and work on this great new line! Lots of consistent 5.11 climbing. A bit sporty but not dangerous. Red point grade is probably 5.11b, but expect 5.11+ for the on-sight. There is at least one move which is less than obvious.
    By Cedar Wright
    Nov 30, 2014

    Great new addition to Eldo! Really tricky and exciting sequences that have to be climbed to be believed. I did the whole 65m mega pitch which enters into the Doub Griffith right at the crux arete climbing... and then took the 12a direct finish. A heads up: the crux move is pulling up 60 meters of rope to clip the last bolt. It would have probably been more fun and "less of a drag" to belay off of two of the lead bolts on D.B. or something.
    By dameeser
    From: denver
    Dec 10, 2014

    I must have missed all the gear placements between the bolts...or maybe there aren't any. Top notch route with a good amount of spice. I think a 2 or 3 would also work in the horizontal.
    By WadeM
    From: Golden, Co
    Apr 8, 2016

    We noticed the tri-cam placement, but going for this lead onsight, I'd give it R-.

    I also imagine it hadn't been climbed in a while, because it was overgrown with lichen. I really enjoyed the climbing!

    Just needs a little cleaning!
    By Noah McKelvin
    From: Colorado Springs
    Apr 9, 2016
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R

    You definitely don't want to blow it between bolts 3 and 4. I found the route super devious with a ton of lichen and no chalk :) This thing would be hard to onsight! Overall, worth doing. The movement is nice. All about the footwork and balance! Definitely link it to Doub Griffith and the Schlauch Direct! So good!
    By Monty
    From: Golden, CO
    Apr 9, 2016

    Hmmm... an R rated newly installed route?

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