REI Community
Rattletale Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Avenging the Goddess Kring T 
Amphibian , The S 
Arch Enemy T 
Bonobo, The T 
Chasin' the Lizard T 
Claw, The T,TR 
Cricket, The T 
Jane Goodall S 
Kubla Khan and the Fountain of Eternal Stoke T 
Millipede , The TR 
Orangutan , The T 
Rattletale T 
Shrew, The S 
Snake, The T,TR 
Source, The S 
Wasp, The T 
With Man Gone Will There Be Hope For Gorilla T 
ze Squid T,TR 

With Man Gone Will There Be Hope For Gorilla 

A2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 50'
Original: A2 [details]
FA: Jacob Smith
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 646
Submitted By: Jacob Smith on Aug 3, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
A2 Beauty

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1 (C2+) -
Clean aid out a prominent, long, left/downward facing arch just right of Arch Enemy and then ascend briefly to a bolted anchor. Expect some excitement with tiny gear right off the ground, followed by some good pieces at the apex of the arch, and then the crux as the crack becomes shallow and flaring.

As far as free climbing is concerned, consider this an open project. Be aware that a boulder pad or three is probably better protection than any of the gear you're going to get until the apex of the arch.

Pitch 2 (A2) -
From the bolted anchor at the top of pitch 1, bat hook right to a series of upward facing flakes, then head up the thin seam from the bolt, many beaks placement but some pods for solid clean gear too, ends at a bolted anchor just before the large treed ledge.
This pitch would likely go clean at C3-4.

Location 

Obvious prominent arch just above where the trail to Rattletale Wall splits (left to Rattletale, right to other new routes).

Protection 

Standard clean aid rack for the first pitch, ball nuts and offset cams a must.
I strongly suspect that the more ball nuts you have, the easier this climb becomes.

For the second pitch, take a small iron rack with an emphasis on beak-type pitons of all sizes, also clean gear to .5 inches.


Photos of With Man Gone Will There Be Hope For Gorilla Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: topo
BETA PHOTO: topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ballnuts good
Ballnuts good
Rock Climbing Photo: Myself on the first FA attempt, first half of the ...
Myself on the first FA attempt, first half of the ...

Comments on With Man Gone Will There Be Hope For Gorilla Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 3, 2015

Nice route name Jacob, and it looks like a fun, clean route.
By Downtownt Kay
From: Everett, WA
Aug 25, 2015

you'll want to find a belay slave? :) also, great name Jacob!
By Stamati
From: Bellingham, WA
Nov 19, 2016

I'm assuming you'd be less than stoked on bolts for free climbing....
By Jacob Smith
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 24, 2016

Stamati - It's complicated, we can talk about it if you want.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About