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04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buffy T 
Bugaboo T 
Charlotte's Crack T 
Clamdigger Crack T 
Continental Cracks T 
Desperado T,S 
Equinox T 
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START) T 
Good Omens T 
Harmonic Convergence T 
Heathrow - Ice Climb 
Hotel California T 
Joe's Route - Ice Climb 
Obscure Object of Desire S 
Old Spice T 
Old Stud S 
Pandora T,S 
Poison Ivy T 
Queen Charlotte T 
Slow Children (mid-cliff START)  T 
Spider (mid-cliff START) T 
Tangled Up in Blue (mid-cliff START) T 
Tritium Witch (mid-cliff START) T 
Web (mid-cliff START), The T 
White Streak T 
Witchy Woman (mid-cliff START) T 

Witchy Woman (mid-cliff START) 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Ben Townsend, Jerry Cinnamon, Dorcas Miller
Page Views: 117
Submitted By: Ben Townsend on Jun 13, 2016

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Starting up Witchy Woman

Description 

Follow the wide crack until it ends at a horizontal, then climb straight up a short slab to reach a diagonal ramp. Step left a few feet, then climb straight up to a tiny overlap. Pull the overlap (crux) and follow big holds, stepping left to finish up the middle of the face. The route seems improbable from below in several spots, but hidden holds and pockets make it both easy and well protected.

Location 

Start by climbing Joe's Route (4th or easy 5th, 150') to the prominent pine tree on the right skyline. The route starts at a wide crack about 20' feet left of the pine.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3"; pine tree with rap chain and ring at the top.


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By Ben Townsend
Jun 13, 2016

The line shown for this climb in the book Rock Climbing New England is a long way to the left of the actual route.

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