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Witchway Arete 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bob Siegrist
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 275
Submitted By: Bob Siegrist on Jul 12, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: A late addition but a line appeared....


Climb the face and a small, right-facing flake to reach the right corner of the small roof. Carefully clip the 3rd bolt from a stance just to the right of the arete at the corner of the roof. Step up and back left onto the face and follow the bolt line, until reaching the 6th bolt on the Dark Horse. From there, climb up and join the crack system and work your way back right to clip the chains. An alternative, climbs up and right, following the finish of the Dark Horse.


The climb starts on the face just left of the arete that is about 15 feet right of Dark Horse.


7 bolts with chain anchors (shared with Dark Horse).

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By Bob Siegrist
Sep 13, 2010

On September 10, I added a bolt on the face below the roof to make the opening section more 'comfortably safe' for the aspiring 5.9 leader.
By Colin Kenneth
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 22, 2012

A good warm up to get the fingers working. I brought my mother up to climb with me today, and she managed it pretty well.

The last bit, between the last bolt and the anchors, felt hard for the grade, compared to the rest of the route. With all of these slab routes, the grades are relative to how comfortable you are in your boots. (The top section of this is really the only slabby portion of this route, specifically.) Perhaps I finished the route via Dark Horse?

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