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Elixir Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alchemy T 
Apothecary T 
Eye of Newt T 
Mama's Magic Milk S 
Mother's Milk S 
Strange Brew T 
Toe of Frog T 
Tongue of Dog T 
Witch's Brew T 
Wool of Bat T 

Witch's Brew 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Barnes, Mark Lovell 7/2016
New Route: Yes
Season: Early spring to late fall
Page Views: 141
Submitted By: JimmyB on Sep 6, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Shared start with Strange Brew. Scramble up to ledge. Continue up bolt protected face. At the third bolt, move left and up sustained face to beautiful left leaning finger and hand crack. This is a bit of a squeeze job, but a challenging lead will reward those who stay true to the line and avoid using Strange Brew.

Location 

Elixir Wall Center. Lower off.

Protection 

7 bolts. Gear to #1 Camalot.


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By Jeff Scheuerell
Sep 9, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Best route on the wall. Belay from the ledge and bring a shoulder length or 2 or you will feel the drag.

I placed a #8 stopper off the ledge at the bottom, then you get bolts. Higher I placed a couple of med size stoppers and a #.75 and #1 Camalot.

A couple of the clips are tenuous so be mindful of rope drag.

As far as the route being a squeeze job, I don't think it is. You veer left to a crack so how is that a squeeze? I was never tempted to move back right, not sure you could make the climb any easier by doing so, you would have to move back left regardless so you would only be making it harder. Don't play the game of "is that hold on or off", just climb it to get to where you want to go.

Great route, thanks for the hard work and $ on the fanciest anchors I have ever lowered off of. My only sort of negative comments or questions would be, could the bolting have been done different to prevent rope drag and make the clips easier and for me the natural finish was to stand up on the ledge at the top but the anchor was really low and a bit awkward to clip? Regardless, it all works out.

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