|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 160'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a PG13 [details]|
|Submitted By:||Ross Purnell on Jun 17, 2009|
|Comments on Witches Brew||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Frank T
Jun 20, 2009
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
|Good description! this was my first lead at Chickies. Be careful of rope drag and you can get to the top in one long pitch. helmets are a must!|
By Larry S
From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Jun 30, 2010
|A good fun climb. Possible belay right where it starts to really slab in or right at the base of the chimney. Or run it straight to the top. Large hexes (7-10) fit PERFECT in this climb. A .75 and a #1 camalot help protect the chimney and moves around onto the face. I recommend the #1 in the chockstone with a long sling and then traverse left out to the face. The moves are easy, but without that a fall here would probably get you pretty well hurt.|
By Tyrel Fuller
From: Denver, CO
Jan 27, 2011
rating: 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c PG13
|there is an old piton near the top of the chimney , just above the horizontal.|
By Paul Chrastina
From: Dover, Pennsylvania
Mar 29, 2011
|Unless things have changed since the early 80s, stemming to the top of the chimney and pulling out and over the chockstone is hard, but not impossible.|
From: Lancaster PA
May 16, 2014
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Lead this for the first time yesterday. Great fun.
As a new(er) trad leader here are my thoughts -
As mentioned above; be mindful of rope drag. Basically extend everything w/ a long sling. I don't usually find good hex placements but I was very glad to have them on this climb.
This is a very looong climb. Make sure you have a full trad rack because you'll use a lot of gear.
By Hyo Byun
1 hour ago
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pretty fun climb. LONG. Take more gear and extended slings than you think you'll need. Also a good excuse to take your #5 up.
Chimney requires more thought than a 5.3. At the top, gear placements aren't great. Used the tree mentioned above & a chock stone (not the same one atop the chimney), but required every bit of a 30ft cord.
Also be prepared for kids instagraming you as pull the summit.