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Witchcraft and Widgetry 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c PG13 [details]
FA: Eric Bissell
New Route: Yes
Season: Afternoon shade
Page Views: 226
Submitted By: EricBis on Dec 12, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: W&W could use an independent anchor above the left...

Description 

The thin, clean open book left of Capulin Classic. The corner starts at tiny wires and gradually opens to .4 camalots at the hanging roof. Bouldery moves through the roof take you to a no-hands ledge. Clip a long LA and follow the left seam/crack through two more bulging cruxes. A spectacular trad route.

Location 

Left of Capulin Classic. Climb up the OW to the sloping ramp to a two-bolt belay for the corner. 70m rope only barely reaches with stretch from anchors above the right exit back to the base of the corner. Knot your Rope!!

Protection 

Small wires, (2ea) .1-.2 (3ea) .3-.4 (1ea) .5-1 (opt.) #4 for final moves to rim or TR directional


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By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Dec 12, 2015

Way to go Eric!! One of the best and most obvious lines at Capulin for sure! A few of us have pretended to climb this over the last 5 years, not one of us was close, but we knew it was all there and did all the moves (Josh having done it more respectably than anyone else, we both tried it at least 2-3 times). We thought the roof might need a bolt but that's even better that it doesn't. Small fingers and good flexibility will help on the stemming up the first half, but a good span may help on the roof. We were usually doing the right fork on the upper half- wide 5.10 after you enter it.. The left fork looks even better! Awesome!!! Must be one of the best trad pitches 5.12+/5.13 in NM (in my unqualified wussy opinion).
By EricBis
Dec 19, 2015

Thanks George! Such an amaaazing trad route. Capulin blows me away every time I go. Such a unique, fragile area with spectacular hard aesthetic lines. Kinda the epitome location of treading lightly. Was a little hesitant putting the pin in, but it was bomber and potentially a seriously needed piece. The next two pieces after it are super small and in questionable rock. Nice to know you have one good piece below. The right-fork is awesome up top and definitely more relaxed because the chances of falling out of the OW are so low. The left-fork adds two insecure cruxes and makes the whole route pretty sustained. I've got FA bias... but it blew me away. Also thank you guys for the new trail!! That thing is mega and beautiful in it's own right!
Fingers crossed for a short closing this year. I'll be calling the FS when I get the beta from Josh on that business.

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