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Devil's Advocate T 
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Witch Hunt 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Gilje, Mike Lechlinski, & Mari Gingery, 1990
Page Views: 1,878
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on May 4, 2003

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Witch Hunt 5.10

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This classic route ascends the left arete past 4 bolts for over 100' to the top of the formation. Large holds and small ledges on exquisite rock are experienced for the duration of the climb.


Medium cams or medium stoppers for the initial crack section and quickdraws for four bolts. The anchor is one 5/8" bolt with a quick shut and rappel ring.

Photos of Witch Hunt Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by H. Harris, 05/04/03
BETA PHOTO: Photo by H. Harris, 05/04/03
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Collar following Witch Hunt 5.10b on a chilly...
Mark Collar following Witch Hunt 5.10b on a chilly...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is a 10b for me.
Here is a 10b for me.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the crux section on the arete. The bol...
Approaching the crux section on the arete. The bol...

Comments on Witch Hunt Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 16, 2016
By David Evans
May 8, 2003

After two false Slatanic sightings, finally, we know where it is!!!
By Graham Roff
Oct 24, 2006

While the climbing is great, it is a very short route with basically 10 or 15 feet of real climbing. I would not really say worthy of the four stars the guide gives it. Definitely fun and well protected though.

Note that if you rap off the single bolt up top you will not make it to the ground with a 60m - you end up having to rap off the end and dropping a couple feet. It works, but be prepared.
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Jun 17, 2009

This climb is featured in a video that I created for one of my film classes. For the video we approached via the North Wonderland trail - much longer but more scenic than the Rattlesnake Canyon approach. The video can be seen here

The Slatanic Area has superb positioning up on a ridge, making for a very photogenic climb. Great rock and cool moves on the arete and face, but as Graham said it's got a short crux with a lot of easier climbing. If you're in the area you might also consider scrambling on over to the opposite side of Valley of the Kings and climbing the Firewater Chimney, another 5.10b, and one of the best in the park.
By C Miller
From: CA
Jun 17, 2009

Nice video, thanks for posting Bryan. Now you're ready for South of Heaven.
By Drewsky
Dec 30, 2012

I thought the fall potential was bad on the arete/face section before the crack at the top. I wouldn't recommend this to the budding 5.10 leader but then again, that could be said about a lot of routes in the park.
By Richard Shore
Jan 5, 2013

Rock quality, position, movement, variety = 4 stars in my book. After leaving the crack at the start, there is a committing mantle move out onto the exposed arête to clip the first bolt. It's not too hard, but you will not want to mess it up.
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Apr 7, 2013

The first pro bolt and the bolted anchor atop the formation were replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in 2013.

The second pro bolt appears to be in good condition and while the final two pro bolts are showing signs of age, both can be backed up with decent cams (0.5 Camalot).

If you use and appreciate updated bolts in J Tree, consider a donation to the ASCA at
By Tradiban
Mar 10, 2016

Huh? I wouldn't say this is close to classic. A few crimpy slab moves for about 10ft is about it. A whipping swinger from the crux didn't look fun either. Last two bolts are just about junk and unnecessary as well. (Shrugs).

BTW, pic in the the latest Mirmontes guide has this starting the same as the 12 and the positions of the bolts is off too. Start left on the crack under the arete.
By Adam Stackhouse
Mar 10, 2016

Trado, why did you buy the miramontes guide anyway?
By Tradiban
Mar 11, 2016

So I don't need to carry multiple books to cover the whole park. That book has the best overview of everything despite a few errors.
By Adam Stackhouse
Mar 11, 2016

Mar 16, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Thanks for the heads up on that Tradoholic. That edition is nearly sold out, so I can incorporate those corrections into the 3rd soon! I climbed all of the routes here, but that was 15 years ago, I don't recall all of the details.

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