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Witblitz T 

Witblitz 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: FA (A.4) Rusty Baillie, Bill Claggett 2/71, Corner and entire route, Ajax Greene, Chris Reveley 3/76
Season: seasonal closures
Page Views: 1,340
Submitted By: Orphaned on Sep 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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The super cool "hidden chimney"

Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

p1 Standard, right of the Sundeck Boulder is a gully system start leading up to a band layer and belay.
p1 "direct" climbs up and right of a roof to small right facing crack ("10a" and a few moves of 5.9 to gain a ledge system that leads right to belay near traditional 1st pitch belay.
P2 is really fine thin crack (5.8) leading to base of right facing dihedral.
p3 is the meats and bones- 5.9ish to get established into corner then up the bald, slick corner with RP brass nuts if you are lucky (crux is above last good piece about 10'). A better corner leads past a little more 5.9 climbing to a belay.
The "John Dugan" takes a right face traverse (PG and 5.9) around the hardest moves in the corner.
p4 is a pretty airy pitch leading up to one last belay 5.8.
p5 5.6 climbing leads to top past a roof and left facing corner.

Location 

Primarily a right facing system right of Green Savior and left of Sorcerer's corner.

Protection 

Brass nuts for original corner, and standard GM rack for balance of route.


Photos of Witblitz Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting up towards the airy roof move -- would rec...
Getting up towards the airy roof move -- would rec...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stemming stylishly through the crux. Long and scar...
Stemming stylishly through the crux. Long and scar...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gabe getting established below the crux
Gabe getting established below the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: The bear-grass pitch.
The bear-grass pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The final roof moves near the top of Witzblitz.
The final roof moves near the top of Witzblitz.

Comments on Witblitz Add Comment
Show which comments
By KyleKent
Oct 20, 2009

The 5.10R corner is one of the finest pitches I have climbed on Granite Mountain, but be solid and not for the faint of heart.
By Bobby Treadwell
From: Prescott, AZ
Sep 26, 2012

The R pitch is beautiful, but very R.
By sean peters
Sep 8, 2017

We just climbed this gem a few days ago. We opted for the variation that avoids the 5.10 R section of the route. Airy and committing with a nice fall/swing potential if you blow-it. I believe the rating is 5.9 R for the variation. It "looks" more appealing to climb the 5.10 thin seam with tiny gear and maybe a better/safer fall??

Great climb with even some bear grass wrestling and caving moves to be discovered in route to the summit.
By GabrielKoybz
From: Brooklyn
Oct 3, 2017

spoooooky, technical corner pitch. it's awesome but pretty darn real in the no-fall zone

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