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Wishful Thinking 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown this ascent Derek DeBruin, Dan Newman, John Fisher
New Route: Yes
Season: June - October
Page Views: 164
Submitted By: Derek DeBruin on Jul 5, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up the bushy corner of P2 of "Wishful...

Description 

This climb was an attempt at a more continuous route on Mount Ogden than the "Gray Slabs." It's name stems from the fact that this is not feasible if starting on the eastern most, lowest buttress given the broken nature of the stacked slabs. However, it does avoid most of the scrambling on P3 and P4 of the Gray Slabs and P5 provides some very enjoyable moderate climbing.

I'll describe the first line we took as well as a few variations for pitches 1 and 2, all of which go at 5.8 - 5.9.

P1 5.7 80ft:
Wander through the initial face to a ledge just right of a moderately-large tree/bush. Continue up the face above trending left toward the right-facing corner, passing a few hollow blocks/flakes. Step around the corner to the left and belay at the base of a left-facing corner on finger size gear.

P2 5.8 120ft:
A couple interesting moves past a bush leads into the left-facing corner. Atop the corner, step right below the roof and perch upon the pedestal created by the corner. A few moves up and left leads to a stance near a gulley.

P3 5.7 40ft:
Step across the gulley and onto the short, clean face. Wander up, following the gear, trending left toward an obvious tree and belay.

P4 5.8 or 4th 50ft:
Move the belay across the ledge and rubble to the base of a few right-facing corners. The second corner from the left features a nice, but short, hand crack that leads to the next ledge. Alternately, scramble up and left onto the left or down and right and back up the next gulley system.

P5 5.7 100ft:
Cross the ledge and step into the gulley, moving the belay just below an alcove at the base of twin cracks. Ascend the twin cracks and continue up and right following near a squeeze chimney above (no chimney climbing required). Belay on the obvious ledge with the large tree.

P6 low 5th 75ft:
From here, scrambling options exist left, up, and right that connect with the upper reaches of P4 of the "Gray Slabs." You'll want to finish just left of the proper ridge line in a gulley that deposits you at the 2-bolt belay marking the base of P5 of the "Gray Slabs."

Continue via the "Gray Slabs" to the summit and walk off, or scramble off to the left down one of the many gulley systems.

VARIATIONS:
Alt P2 5.9 140ft:
Belay near the tree on the ledge atop a shorter P1. Continue up the face and right-facing corner to an overhang. Pass the overhang into a short right-facing corner and follow the rock above to the top of the pedestal to rejoin the original P2.

Left Variation P1 and P2:
P1: Climb face below and left of the original P1 tree ledge that features a step-across move left of the tree. From here, follow a dirty, vegetated face to a stance about 10 feet left across the same belay ledge as the original P1.

P2: Head up the face above, generally staying near the vegetated crack system, terminating at a ledge/gulley below a giant chock stone. Step right below the chock stone to join the original P3, or head up and left of the chock stone onto a similarly clean face that ends at the P3 belay tree.

Location 

Located just uphill and right of the true low point of Mount Ogden's eastern shoulder. Begin in front of a large evergreen that affords some nice shade.

Protection 

Single set to #3 including small gear and stoppers, additional set of cams from roughly 0.5 to #2.


Photos of Wishful Thinking Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The fun fifth pitch of "Wishful Thinking.&quo...
BETA PHOTO: The fun fifth pitch of "Wishful Thinking.&quo...
Rock Climbing Photo: The first two pitches and variations of "Wish...
BETA PHOTO: The first two pitches and variations of "Wish...

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