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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John Reppy, Sam Bailey, 1949
Page Views: 1,870
Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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BETA PHOTO: Wishbone


This route climbs up an obvious crack, around the left edge of the roof that Kor Crack surmounts. The crux is the section immediately below the roof. Above, follow an easy corner to a ledge. Either continue up the same crack (harder) or step right to an easier finish.

This was John Reppy's first FA at Ragged. An attempt to commemorate this on its 50th anniversary was turned back by cold weather. Not many climbers can go back to their FAs 50 years later.


An obvious crack system just left of Bushy Groove.


Standard traprock rack - a big cam might help on the right side finish.

Photos of Wishbone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A chilly March day to be belaying from the top.
A chilly March day to be belaying from the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lacey Lou above the 'crux'
Lacey Lou above the 'crux'
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing just above the crux.
Climbing just above the crux.

Comments on Wishbone Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Nov 15, 2008

A real grunt-fest through the chimney section. My second tried climbing the face instead and finally gave up and crawled inside the chimney muttering expletives.
By Francisco Di Poi
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2009

fun lead...good pro from comfortable positions
By Joel A
Jun 26, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I had a hard time protecting the crux. (They say there was a chockstone to sling for the crux pro - either it's gone or I managed to miss it.)
By Eric G.
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Jul 8, 2012

No the chockstone is still there--it's hard to tell that you can sling it until you get above it. I thought slinging the chockstone was key for keeping it "G"
By Russ Keane
May 23, 2017

Great route! Yes the chimney was tough. Slinging the chockstone is key. Otherwise its very run out.

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