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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Fun, varied climbing. The crux is right off the deck via a purple-Camalot sized crack. The climbing never gets too hard as you punch a few moves to a great hand jam and then repeat. When the two cracks get close enough you can stem between the two and employ a variety of jams to ascend this fun double crack system.
The route is easily identifiable as it looks like a wishbone with twin cracks that meet about halfway up. It's a few hundred feet left of Layaway Plan/Serrator/etc. There is a plaque at the bottom. There is also a new 5.10 just to the left with a plaque at the base. Looks mostly wide, fists to offwidth in a corner, and is called something like "Farkle ..(?)..".
A few purple Camalots and one or two of each from green alien to gold Camalot. Many options exist in how you protect this climb.
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
sucks the .5 camalots off your rack. bring a few of them. other than that, you can protect it with a variety of gear sizes from blue alien to #4 camalot. not really a classic 'creek' route, but definitely a good 'desert' route. good prep for tower pitches.
By Levo R
From: Sunnyvale, CA
May 8, 2013
Not sure on the grade myself. Only lead a few 5.11 cracks. Yeah, many purple camelots. Fun route, fun up high, get the business over with down low.