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Wishbone Suspension 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 1,117
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Nov 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Fun, varied climbing. The crux is right off the deck via a purple-Camalot sized crack. The climbing never gets too hard as you punch a few moves to a great hand jam and then repeat. When the two cracks get close enough you can stem between the two and employ a variety of jams to ascend this fun double crack system.


The route is easily identifiable as it looks like a wishbone with twin cracks that meet about halfway up. It's a few hundred feet left of Layaway Plan/Serrator/etc. There is a plaque at the bottom. There is also a new 5.10 just to the left with a plaque at the base. Looks mostly wide, fists to offwidth in a corner, and is called something like "Farkle ..(?)..".


A few purple Camalots and one or two of each from green alien to gold Camalot. Many options exist in how you protect this climb.

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By slim
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

sucks the .5 camalots off your rack. bring a few of them. other than that, you can protect it with a variety of gear sizes from blue alien to #4 camalot. not really a classic 'creek' route, but definitely a good 'desert' route. good prep for tower pitches.
By Levo R
From: Sunnyvale, CA
May 8, 2013

Not sure on the grade myself. Only lead a few 5.11 cracks. Yeah, many purple camelots. Fun route, fun up high, get the business over with down low.

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