REI Community
Chicken Head Ranch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bart's Route S 
Beaks and Feet S 
Chicken Little S 
Chicken Spit S 
Cluck Cracks T 
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 
Crystal Key, The S 
Extra Crispy S 
Finger Lickin' Good S 
Fracture, The T 
Funky Chicken S 
Measure Up, The S 
Mini-Slab S 
Mini-Splitter T 
Raining Chickens S 
Super Chicken S 
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 
Thunder Chicken S 
Unjust S 
Wank Variation S 
Wishbone Dihedral S 
Yellow Dot S 

Wishbone Dihedral 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tod and Gordon Anderson
Page Views: 4,777
Submitted By: Fred Bonnard on Sep 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (80)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
On the route.

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This route is a must do. It has continuous and various climbing that require some thinking. The first crux comes at the 5th bolt plus a delicate move coming out of the crack a few bolts higher.


This route is the 5th route (East Face) and easy to locate with the obvious dihedral.


12 bolts.

Comments on Wishbone Dihedral Add Comment
Show which comments
By koreo
From: Denver, CO
Jun 28, 2011

Awesome route, I could just be a pussy, but I think it's a little stout for the grade.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jun 28, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Does it help if my son led it last year when he was 10? There are some kind of inobvious moves, so it may seem tough if you miss the tricks.
By slim
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Great route with consistently interesting climbing from the moment you leave the ground until you clip the chains. From the ground, it looks fairly easy, but there is some weird geometry up there.
By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Jul 8, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Killer moves on bullet rock, certainly one of the best .11s at DH.
By Pink Thunder
From: Lakewood
May 6, 2013

This route is awesome. Best one I've found yet at Devil's Head. Do it, but it ain't 11b; I'd say solid 11c.
By Kirsten KDog
May 27, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I'm not in the greatest climbing shape at the moment, but this felt pretty hard for 11b. Very sustained. Maybe I wasn't reading some of moves right, but it felt tricky for sure.
By michalm
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 18, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Great route! Techy and pumpy stemming with plenty of good rests and great holds. The most difficult part of the route was reading it. The climbing is no harder than 11b with good footwork for a taller person.
By Abel Jones
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2014

If you have a rack.... Try it on gear. I clipped the bolts and felt bad for it.... It appeared to have more textbook pro than the 11c crack on the northeast face of this formation.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Nov 26, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

If you do this on gear, just don't fall on the upper half of the route. Also, the now possible gear placements on the crux were full of rocks until I cleaned them out, but they are nice finger locks.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About