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Wish You Were Beer 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Earle, Favresse
Page Views: 1,686
Submitted By: m-earle on Oct 28, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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I'll try and get a better pic...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

If this route wasn't guarded by 100 feet of heinous choss, it would be a mega classic. While the dubious first pitch isn't nearly as dangerous as it was for the first ascensionists, it still has some loose bits. Tread lightly.

P1-5.10 Climb fingers in a shallow right-facing corner up to a loose ledge, then up double cracks. Continue up and left (watch for loose bits) to the top of a small pillar. 110'

P2-5.12+ Money. Climb the beautiful offset splitter to the top of some blocks (could probably be trundled, but they are HUGE). 90'

Location 

This is the obvious long thin, offset splitter up and left of Goodbye Cruel World.

Protection 

In camalots...
1 1
1-2 .75
4-5 .5
4-5 .4
2 .3


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By m-earle
From: USA
Oct 28, 2008

A third pitch could probably be pushed, but the crack looks like it seams-out. Might want to warn people if you're getting on this route, we cleaned it up pretty good, but there is still stuff that could go...

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