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The Wedge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden T 
Book of Easy Learning T 
Fisticuffs T 
Ghost of a Smile S 
Leggo My Ego S 
Nineveh T 
Not of this State S 
Timeless T 
Vein Imagination T 
Wisdom T 

Wisdom 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Wes Schaffer, Grant Walker, Eric Sloan, '96
Page Views: 141
Submitted By: Mat Brunton on Jul 12, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Wisdom 5.9

Description 

Scramble up solid and loose rock from the gully to a nook with small belay ledge, which doesn't offer much space or anchor opportunity. Climb easy 5th class on mostly solid blocks, with avoidable tundra patches, through cleaner and more solid blocky rock into a corner with a crack. Climb the crack, with features on the faces of both corners, up and through a small roof. Exit left onto a low angle slab, then scramble up to the big tundra ledge for a gear anchor.

Location 

NE aspect Peak 4160 (Wedge ridge) towers at ~3000' elevation. Above and behind the first tower (which hosts S&G, Nineveh, and Great Expectations); climb around the first tower to the right then go left and drop down the gully behind it. Wisdom and Book of Easy Learning are in a nook off to the right of the gully (when descending). Then comes Vain Imagination, Timeless, and Beast of Burden as you continue down this gully.

Protection 

Gear to 3" with cam doubles nice. Gear anchor in a low, horizontal crack (~.5-1.5") on a large boulder feature on the tundra ledge (a large stopper and BD .5 and .75 work nicely). Other anchor options may exist.


Photos of Wisdom Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wisdom (5.9 crack in the left corner) and Book of ...
BETA PHOTO: Wisdom (5.9 crack in the left corner) and Book of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wisdom 5.9
BETA PHOTO: Wisdom 5.9

Comments on Wisdom Add Comment
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By Mat Brunton
Jul 12, 2015

Be very careful of rock fall in this area! It is a hazard scrambling to and from climbs. It is a hazards on climbs. Triggered rock fall is a hazard to others in the area due to the channeled nature of the terrain where climbs are located. Be mindful of other parties!

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