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Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 240', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: P1 Mike Friedrichs, George Jamison 1990. P2 Dave Medara, John Merriam 1996.
Season: Not hot.
Page Views: 879
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Apr 27, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Wisdom Tooth on approach

Description 

Wingate doesn't get much better than on this beautiful tower.

P1 - Climb a long and sustained crack through just about every size to a big belay ledge. It starts thin and widens as it goes with the occasional chimneyish pod. 165', 5.11

P2 - Climb a sandy wide crack in a dihedral to a ledge system. Follow the ledge system clear around to the other side of the tower and head up the first reasonable weakness to the summit. 75', 5.9+

Location 

Approach as for the Lightbulb. After working your way through some cliff bands onto the bench the Lightbulb is on, turn right and head up into the side canyon. You can see the tower from the road easily enough.

Protection 

Bring pretty much everything from small cams to big pieces. The first pitch is long. 4-5 sets from .5-3 camalots with a few smaller pieces down to green alien and a single set of big cams.


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By Cole Bradburn
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 24, 2017

Awesome tower! First pitch is on some great rock and gets your through all the sizes from 1" to 4" and it even has a classic tower climbing ending. The second pitch is short and sandy but adds a bit of that "tower climbing" that you don't get on the first pitch. We broke the second pitch into two pitches because of rope drag. After we got onto the big ledge system right before the 10 foot summit block we belayed here and then scrambled to the top.

Replaced the webbing on both anchors 4/22/17

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