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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Mark Leonard an David Baltz around the same time as Dossier (c.a. 1989)
Page Views: 531
Submitted By: Matthias Lang on Aug 18, 2012

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Technical climbing gets you past a not so good looking pin to a button-head bolt. Pro comes from thin cams in horizontals. I found the crux to be right after the bolt. The following bulge is easier that it looks. After this you follow a flaring grove towards the roof and step right just before you reach it.
I found this part very heady. The guidebook calls the pro tricky, but it's not just hard to spot, but also just not that good IMO. While this part is easier than the start there are some 10- moves above not-as-good-as-you-want-it pro.


left of Cloak and Dagger. Starts on top of the rock pile under the pin in the horizontal.


2 sets of cams to #.75 c4, singles up to #3 c4. One #5.

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By Matthias Lang
From: Albuquerque
Aug 18, 2012

Was pretty scary for me. Did not bring along anything bigger that a #3 and remember cursing at least at two spots where a bigger cam would have fit into the grove. Next time i bring along 2 #4 and 1 #5 and figure out on rappel which ones to use. But I do think even with the bigger pieces this deserves a PG13 rating. Besides the mental part I also found it technically harder than Skinwalker, but not quite as good.
By William Penner
From: The 505
Aug 19, 2012

Small edit--the route name is Wiretap rather than Wiretrap.

Good job on the lead Matthias...the first time up Wiretap is quite exciting.
By Matthias Lang
From: Albuquerque
Aug 19, 2012

Damn, you're right! For some reason I always read Wiretrap in the guide book. Thanks.
By Mick S
From: Utah
Aug 20, 2012

I never thought that big pro in the upper flaring groove would actually hold a fall (where you really needed it). Sparse small pro, but what you get is good. Heads-up lead, I have always been more concerned at the bottom since it's pumpy, and you are close to the ground. The pin in the horizontal will likely hold at least one fall, I was always pleased when I got the cam in the next horizontal, it's bomber. The button head above that, well that's a different story ...
By Matthias Lang
From: Albuquerque
Sep 29, 2012

TR'd it today. Have to say the pro at the upper crux is better than I remembered. And Mick is right, big pro won't fit high up where it's hard, but there is a great spot a little lower for a #5 c4, where nothing else will work.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Maybe I missed something, but I didn't find any places where I wished I had a #5, #4, or #3 Camalot. I felt like were 5.10- sections where you don't want to fall (run-out, or tricky/so-so gear).
The old Hill guidebook shows 2 variations to Wiretap, with the left line passing the piton and bolt listed at 10b, and a line slightly to the right at 10c. There seemed to be a lot of options as far as moving left or right along horizontals in this section of cliff.
By David Baltz
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Apr 11, 2017

FA Mark Leonard an David Baltz around the same time as Dossier (probably 1989).

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