REI Community
search
Olesen Creek Wall
Select Route:
Eavesdrop T 
Float like a Butterfly, Sting like a Bee (FLAB SLAB) T 
Hearsay T 
Rumble in the Jungle T 
Thriller on the Pillar T 
Wiretap T 

Wiretap 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Damien McCombs, Brock wilson, and Jeremy Frimer
Season: NW Facing, Shady lower pitch
Page Views: 2,157
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 1, 2010  with updates from Anders Mjos

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
pitch 3, a 5.9 or 10a crack

Description 

A fun, four or five pitch route featuring a mix of moderate crack and slab climbing. All anchors are fixed.

P1 (10a) 35m - Up the long crack system ending up a short, fine splitter.

P2 (5.7) 15m - Can be linked with P1. Up a short 5.7 crack and then traverse right to a sweet belay atop a chopped tree.

P3 (5.9+/5.10-) 20m - The first ascenionists originally had placed 4 bolts of this pitch, but due to the availability of gear, removed all but one of them. The are certainly some hand size cams available, but take care placing them perfectly as the crack is flaring. I placed two #3 camalots on the way to the bolt.

P4 (5.8) 20m I linked this one with P3. Up a short corner and then past a handful of bolts.

P5 (5.9) 25m Low angle slab padding.

Topo is available (2010):
jeremyfrimer.com/uploads/2/1/2...

See this thread for information about the route, topo, and a discussion of the bolt removal.

squamishclimbing.com/squamish_...

Location 

Follow the directions on the Olesen Creek page. This route starts right in the middle of the main wall - aiming for a angling crack up high.

Protection 

Nuts and double cams from fingers to #3 camalot.


Photos of Wiretap Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the end of pitch 4... easy but interesting face cl...
the end of pitch 4... easy but interesting face cl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wire Tap from the start
Wire Tap from the start

Comments on Wiretap Add Comment
Show which comments
By Toby Foord-Kelcey
Jan 5, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

An excellent route. Jeremy Frimer is a hard-working and creative guy. How many people must have looked at the buttress from the Sea-to-Sky and pondered the potential - but got no further ...
By DCSwish23
From: Maine/Spain
Aug 22, 2011

Using a 70m rope it was quite easy to link pitches and I would especially link the second since it's so short and easy.
By slim
Administrator
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

a great addition to the area that will, undoubtedly, become a popular classic. the first pitch (combine 1 and 2) is super fun, and the belay is probably the coolest belay i have ever had (or at least in the top handful). the following pitches up to the wiretap crack are fun, and surprisingly techy. wiretap crack is beautiful, the granite is sort of a polished gold that is similar to parts of tuolomne or yosemite. you wish it would go on for 240 feet....
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 8, 2013

Climbed it again by starting up Thriller on the Piller and finishing on Wire Crack. Thriller is an awesome pitch and provdes a "harder" start. Wire Crack was pretty short all things considered....
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 12, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Really fun. Couple notes.

1) three purple camalots would not go unused, but two is fine.

2) thriller on the pillar is a great start. Link to the stump belay.

3) link pitch 3/4.

4) on rappel from wire crack, when you wonder where the hell the next station is, it's around the corner to the right.
By Rose H
Aug 22, 2016

Finishing on Wire Crack totally made this climb for me. Awesome finger crack that's over all too soon.
By Shell Wyngarde
3 days ago

Incredible route! We finished pitch 4 and had to rap due to nightfall setting in.

It was a bit mossy on the bottom, but every is there. Makes for a slightly more interesting lead ;) We wished we had brought some brushes up to help scrub it.

More beta on the rappels!

Pitch 3 only has hangers. But pitch 4 is close to climb to.
We rappeled from the 4th pitch (5.8)
Our 70m rope made it a few feet above the anchor of the beautiful belay spot the end of pitch 2. Some long slings and creativity, and we were ok to set up the next rappel safely. Tie knots! Seriously.

There was a short rappel (10m-15m or so) straight down from the pitch 2 anchors. It was on a fairly mossey face, has shiny newish hangars and chains, with a tiny foot ledge for comfort. It is to the right of pitch one anchors.
Set up your next rappel there to ensure you will touch ground.

We might have gone a funny way, but in case anyone else ends up in the same
situation, there is the beta.

Have fun! :)

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About