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Lower Peanuts
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar T,S 
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 
Black Pearl S 
Blows Against the Empire T 
Chaucer T 
Cornered, straight up variation T 
Criller  T,TR 
Dihedral T 
Do or Do Not T 
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Easy Off T 
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 
Faith, Hope and Charity T 
Fickle Finger of Eight T 
Forbidden Planet S 
Good Mourning T,TR 
Home Free T 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 
Let's Jet S 
Narrow Gate, The T 
No Visible Means of Support T 
Nova T,TR 
Off The Cuff T 
Peanuts T 
Pretender, The T 
Right Escape T 
Sacred and the Profane, The S 
Scorpions T 
Shield, The T 
Sickle T 
Star Track T,TR 
Strata Outta Compton T 
Strolling T 
Tracer T 
Trouble And Strife T,TR 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 
Whiskey Gala T 
Wired T 
X-Wing T 
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 
Your Basic Lieback T 


YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: P. Ellinwood, D. Rice, 1977
Page Views: 81
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 27, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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  • Description 

    Approach this climb and belay as described for Forbidden Planet, which is just to its right side.

    Start up a right-facing dihedral to the left until it is possible to move up and to the right in a right-leaning crack. Place gear and move up and right, following the crack to its intersection with the left-facing dihedral (a 5.9- appropriately named "Dihedral") to your right. You will intersect the dihedral near a flake. Place good gear and step up and left until a good ledge is reached.

    Go up and right to rap from the top of Forbidden Planet.


    Small nuts and a few cams.

    This climb is protected by some questionable small gear and is certainly not a great route to press your level on.

    Comments on Wired Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Michael Komarnitsky
    Founding Father
    From: Seattle, WA
    Jul 4, 2003

    For leading, I'd suggest 1 ~red Alien sized, a #2 Camalot for the end, and then a few nuts/RPs no bigger than #4 stopper. We TR'ed in and fiddled with pro for a bit, everything was a little questionable.
    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    May 10, 2004

    I concur with the "s" rating here, the pro is rather difficult to place and it's small. I used two #2 and two #3 RPs to protect fairly sustained moves, plus the gear mentioned above. The RPs might hold with Screamers, but better not to fall on the first half as that ledge is never too far below.Fun climb, maybe a bit harder than 9+, but probably not a good route for a 5.9 or 10- leader.
    By chris w
    Dec 5, 2005

    This is a great climb in practicing with RPs, HB's offsets and small wires placements. Place a lot because if you fall swinging in the corner or decking is very likely. A [reasonable] lead for a solid 5.9 leader. Chris W.
    By Chris O'Connor
    From: boulder, co
    Jul 6, 2007
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

    This is a dangerous climb. I'm 6'1'' an could barely reach over to the flake to place the number two before doing the very committing and thin crux. A shorter person probably wouldn't be able to protect the crux making this climb very serious or X rated. I thought I'd be able to get a nut in the crack, but the crack was just too thin. Any placement would have been more for mental benefit and probably wouldn't have protected a fall. This would be a very nice toprope however.
    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 1, 2015
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

    I agree that this climb warrants a solid R rating, and I wouldn't want to put a 5.9 leader on the sharp end of this one. This is one of those pitches where you can place the gear, but there is no way of telling how good it really is without falling on it. While you have great gear for the first little crux of pulling on to the slab, until you reach the good flake at the end of the traverse, you are relying completely on tiny RPs behind the very thin, outside edge of the crack. Falling could very likely end you back up on the ledge messing you up pretty good....

    Also, woe to those without a 6'6" wingspan. I'm about 6' and had to do an exciting high step on a small edge to slam that #2 home in the flake at the end.

    All that being said, this was a great little route! 3 star climbing but just too short!

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