|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Tom McLeod, 80's|
|Submitted By:||R.Walters on Sep 18, 2012|
|Seasonal Raptor Closures.|
|Comments on Wire Brush Hair Cut||Add Comment|
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From: SL UT
Sep 20, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
|I always found it easier to do all the moves through the crux and clip from a better hold up higher...longer fall potential, but less chance blowing the crux clip. Those homemade hangers are a bit un-nerving... they used to be found on chassin' a snake too, but were replaced in 2005 or so... They are also found on Flight 1713 in Scary Canyon.|
Oct 7, 2012
I agree with you, Heller. I thought that clipping the 5th bolt from below would have been nearly impossible (for me).
The fourth bolt, which is easy to clip, protects the crux, but is at or below your feet when you are making the last difficult move. But it's nothing but air below.
Edit: Suspect hardware updated to stainless as of Oct 2015.
Also.. rattlesnake spotted near the eastern edge of the Dark Side cliff band recently. Keep an eye out, especially during shoulder season.
Here's the old hanger: