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Winter Warmer Area
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Winter Warmer S 

Winter Warmer 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dave Fields and Ernie Moskovitz, 1993
Page Views: 4,202
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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Steve closes down with one small pump remaining.


Just what I was looking for: a chance to spray about Dave Fields. Dave put up many of the routes on North Table Mountain back when it just looked like a choss pile. The crags don't look much better several years down the line, but a slew of fine climbing routes have arisen from the heap. Winter Warmer is certainly one of the best lines on the hill and a fine contribution on Dave's part.

The climbing begins below the tallest sector of the hill, and takes a bold stab up the headwall 65 feet above. Start in a flaring, inverted slot and make a big reach to killer jugs and the second clip. The bigger your ape index, the easier the move. Winter Warmer steps left to follow a line of bolts up to the roof and head wall above. A variation to Winter Warmer stays straight on after the second clip and follows a thin seam for a short way. This is also a fine route, and it is also 80 - 85 feet long. Pull the roof on Winter Warmer on its left hand side and continue up a pumpy jug haul to the double bolt anchor that is over a ledge and out of sight.

Three stars by any estimate for the nice long route, good climbing moves, boldness, and overall fine stone.


QDs only. Bring a bunch of draws. This route is 80 - 85 feet long and is well-bolted but bold. The route needs a 60 m rope. This will get you down with a bit to spare, but a 50 m rope will not. Watch out! I have watched people get lowered off a 50 m rope to pick up a nasty fall at the end. As of 2007, the bolts have been updated.

Photos of Winter Warmer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kirstin warming up for the first crux.
Kirstin warming up for the first crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Mestas launching the opening moves.
Steve Mestas launching the opening moves.

Comments on Winter Warmer Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 11, 2013
By L. Hamilton
Apr 6, 2002

I thought the R-hand variation was the better of these two routes, and certainly no harder (at most 5.10c). A straighter line and more even difficulty. Either way, fine climbing.
By victor villarreal
Apr 12, 2002

Not sure if officially closed...but there is a huge (active) falcon nest just to the right of the route....may be good to highlight it as such (like the closed Eldo routes). I'd stay off. Thanks! ~Victor
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 24, 2002

Bold?? I can see the line as being sweet, aesthetic, plumb, pumpy, or pretty...but bold? Over- and mis-used come to mind. Lene's Dream offers a long fall, but clean, and that might be considered a bold lead. When I think of bold I think of a cool head and the courage of a lion to drop the clutch with perilous consequences waiting below. That, my friend, is bold!
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 20, 2002

Wear on both of the cold shuts at the top warrants some caution. These are in need of replacement, but will serve just fine for raps or top-ropes - if one is top-roping through their own gear. Replacement of both anchors should be high on the priority list.
By Bryson Slothower
Apr 16, 2003

I did this route a couple of days ago and saw crows not falcons in the nest mentioned above.......
By Edward Jenner
May 1, 2003

I am somewhat confused about the routes (and variations) in this alcove. I think I know which way the original Winter Warmer goes, but Richard talks about an inverted V-slot - strange name for a layback crack. So I guess Winter Warmer goes up the line on the right (as shown in the photos below), then left under the roof to finish at the bolts on the left, where as the Variation goes straight up at the roof to finish at the bolts on the right (which seems the more logical line to me). So what is the start and line of bolts on the left and can these be climbed to the anchors on both the left and the right? Or more to the point is it worthwhile?
By Darin Lang
May 1, 2003

The start, at least, has always confused me as well. Then again, I'm easily confused, so that may not mean much. The inverted slot to the left of the layback start, referred to in the description but conspicuously absent from the photos, seems quite a bit harder than 10d to me, and I always assumed it was separate from both WW and the WW Variation.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 2, 2003

One could use a different lexicon to describe the start - kinda-of-a-thin-slot-type-of-thing-with-a-kinda-undercling-sort-of-thing-on-the-right-to-start-sort-of. Or... The more logical line, it it matters, runs a bit right and in a bit more of a bee-line. That's why Dave bolted it. The line to the right is some kind of 5.11 thing for a move or two and then catches up with WW proper - kinda-of-in-the-middle-sort-of-thing... Ain't rocket science.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 2, 2003

P.S.: Has anyone but Richard Rossiter ever figured out how to describe a route? He should get the climbers' Nobel Prize for clarity and originality in telling us exactly what to expect when we walk up to some God forsaken chunk of rock.
By Edward Jenner
Oct 6, 2003

It's now crystal clear! Climb what you want, call it Winter Warmer and have fun.
By Kathy Plate
Nov 10, 2003

This is a great route. It is fairly sustained and suprisingly long for north table!
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 12, 2004

I agree that describing the start of this route is difficult, but I think it's worth a shot because it's really confusing. In the area of Winter Warmer, there appears to be two routes that start about 3-4 feet apart. The left start is in a deep v-slot with a bolt on the right hand wall of the slot. The first bolt on the right hand start requires a longish reach from atop a pedestal of rock, using a left hand undercling (-ish) and a right hand sidepull. I always assumed the right hand start was "Winter Warmer Variation," and the left hand start (in the deep v-slot) was "Winter Warmer." Both are given a rating of 10d. That's part of the confusion to me, because I've tried the deep v-slot start about 15 times, and have succeeded only once. The other start, on the right, seems far easier.

Terry Bryant
By Tod Anderson
Jan 15, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The original start to Winter Warmer went up the layback flake on the right. The v-slot was added much later and if you stay strictly in the slot and don't climb around it to the left is clearly not 5.10 anything. Also, the original Winter Warmer route took the left hand variation at the top. More recent additions have obscured the original line, so now there's 4 routes instead of just one!
By shad O'Neel
Jan 22, 2004

I did the line on the right today, with a 50 m rope, just barely long enough. I thought the technical crux was probably passing the first bolt, but the route was really sustained at 5.10 a/b and quite pumpy. Probably the best route I've tried at Table, long and nice, some spots are quite polished.
By Edward Jenner
Jan 29, 2004

Thanks, I think I get it now.

For anyone confused about the variety of ratings, IMO all the ratings here 10b or 10d are appropriate depending on your philosophy for rating climb. Being unusually long for Table mountain, the sustained nature and one hard(er) move at the right hand start, results in somewhat wide grade variations.
By ac
Jan 29, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

11a (at the start only) -- rest is sustained but no move harder than 10a/b
By Michael Amato
Dec 19, 2004

Climbed this great route again today - ! The start depends on some power and getting a good right foot to support the quick step up with the left, but there's another cruxy spot above, staying straight up, passing the third bolt, balancy and crimpy - excellent. If you don't stop and take the numerous rests this route affords you, the traverse left under the roof (what I have always understood to be Winter Warmer route proper) will pump you out and you'll hate yourself for peeling off of bomber 5.8 jugs, so milk every rest you get.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Dec 30, 2006

The shuts at the top are in real bad shape as of 12/06 and need to be replaced - watch out.
By Skat
May 23, 2007

Does anyone know if the anchors have been replaced yet?
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 23, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

New three bolt anchor, all 1/2" rawls with winch hooks as of 1/4/08. All the bolts are new too and color coded. A major hold broke just above the roof and the bolt that protects the headwall run-out got tested!

The nesting has always been crows, but the falcons are around. The presence of falcons has been good for climbers. All the pidgeons are gone and the routes they fowled have cleaned up again. I've also seen the falcon harassing the crows.

Winter Warmer's FIRST ASCENT was done by both Dave Fields and Ernie Moskovitz.
By GabeO
From: New Haven, CT
Nov 21, 2011

The jug you need to clip the first bolt from 10 feet up has some cracks around it. I didn't feel any movement, but I'm not tall enough to clip the bolt without bringing my feet up high, so I backed off. Someone more familiar than me should go check it out to see if that hold is changing at all. If so, consider asking the FA team about moving the bolt a foot lower.
By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Feb 3, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Bold only getting to and above the first bolt. From there, it is well protected. Four distinct and unique cruxes. One of my favs at NTM.
10c, but pretty sustained. Fun!
By Ernie Moskovics
Apr 11, 2013

FA: Dave and Ziggy as indicated. We were lucky to snatch this line, there were like 4 drills spinning at NTM the day we installed it. Ken Trout was hot on our heels but got involved with a short route nearby instead. The tentative name was "Poached Trout" (Dave's brilliant suggestion), but we were into Young's Winter Warmer and actually drank some later to celebrate this rig. The bolt prorecting the runout above the roof was first tested by Tripp about a week later.

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