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Winter Delight 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,271
Submitted By: Jeffrey Struck on Aug 12, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Beta topo

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A little funky, a little spicy, but not too much drama. Begin immediately left of tunnel #1, and climb up the somewhat sparsely bolted face. Be sure to bring gear to protect the run-outs, especially between the 1st and 2nd bolts. Continuously difficult moves with few rests make this exceptionally difficult for the grade. This is a good introduction to the steeper routes at Beacon.

Location 

Hike down the "climbers trail" past the popular Southeast face route. The route is located immediately left of tunnel #1.

Protection 

Four bolts and gear to 1.5" - 3/4" cam essential for runout between 1st and 2nd bolts. Double Metolius rap-bolt anchor.


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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Aug 18, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

The original description of this route was as a "somewhat adventurous sport route." This was dangerously misleading and has been changed to reflect the reality of the climb. Gear is required to prevent a decking fall from 20' and is at least convenient to have when moving between the widely-spaced bolts up high.

Also, the bolts are nearly 30 years old with less-than-ideal hardware and will be replaced soon.

The start is quite precarious and will likely require you to step way right in order to reach the first bolt without pulling 5.11 moves. I actually found this to be the crux... you could probably get a cam to work in the back of the flaring slot. After you clip the first bolt and you've made a move to a nice stance, plug a BD .3 or equivalent and keep moving. The moves are continuously difficult with few rests. Near the top you will enjoy having some extra nuts and small-medium cams as well.

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