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Winter Dance 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: M. Tupper
Page Views: 83
Submitted By: Mr. Stevens on Apr 1, 2017

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Description 

This shares the first two bolts of the 5.12a "Glass Slipper". Make some hard 5.11, easy 5.12 moves through the first three bolts using good pinches and pockets to a good rest at the right slanting crack/seam feature. "Glass Slipper" moves left here, but you want to go right, unless you want to climb the 12a, then you'd go left....or just lower down and watch your girlfriend play a weird modified version of Mancala with her friend while the wind blows really hard. Anyway, go back up and from the third bolt head up and right through the crux. The fourth clip kind of sucks and the holds through the crux suck even more, but it has a really cool sequence if you do it like I did, but you will most likely do it differently because you're taller/shorter/stronger, etc. Assuming you get to this point, gain the slab, do some compression type moves, and join the 5.11b "Just Left of Paradise" for the last few bolts. Cool rock, nice moves, 3.2% beer.

Location 

Just left of the 5.11b "Just Left of Paradise" and a large boulder

Protection 

7-8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor


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By LL2
From: Santa Fe, NM
Apr 6, 2017

Nice description, lol

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