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Winter at DL

Original Post
Patrick · · Chicago, Il · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

We have been super lucky to have the fall that we've had and as much as I would love to believe it will continue I'm trying not to be super optimistic. Decided a while ago that I was going to continue climbing regardless of what month it is and be creative with what the weather throws at me but was checking in on what to expect from those who brave the cold and keep climbing. Rock turn to shambles and not worth climbing? Does it still heat up in the sun regardless of temps? Approaches get super sketchy? Just bring a bunch of warm gear and be miserable? I have the idea that it's good training for alpine but before I decide to drive 4 hours looking for whatever winter beta I can get. Heading up Sunday so that should be a nice welcome to climbing below 40

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

Find something south facing and you would be surprised at how comfortable it can be as long as the sun is shining. Bring a puffy for belaying and maybe a thermos of someitng hot to drink.

Shea B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Don't forget the old "hand warmers in the chalkbag" trick. Saved me during a cold day in the shade at 38°.

Patrick · · Chicago, Il · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

I'm going to probably need to try that out regarding the chalk bag. It will be sunny Sunday but calling for a high of 38 so we will see how that plays out

Patrick · · Chicago, Il · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Additionally, anyone ever hear of nearby Cascade or Devils head allowing people practice alpine techniques on the side of the runs. I know cascade gets steep in places and would be super rad to practice "glacier" travel, crevasse rescue and even simply front pointing or French techniques up the runs. Even cooler to do that and strap the planks on to go back down and get more reps. I'm guessing this is wishful thinking

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Shoe rubber is designed to perform optimally at approximately 32-40 degrees Fahrenheit. Get on it!

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,056

DL can be awesome in the winter!

Balanced Rock Wall is the warmest spot in the park. As long as the sun is shining, you should be able to climb there. A close second is Bedroom Amphitheater.

Some of my best days at DL have been in the winter when the friction is great and there are fewer crowds. Plus, you feel pretty badass climbing when you know all your friends are home watching football and drinking beer.

NegativeK · · Nevada · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 40

You're reading my mind, Pat-agonia. I was worrying with a friend about unknown sketchiness of approaches and slipperiness of cliff tops with a friend last night.

James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166

If it's above zero and sunny, it's a good day for rock climbing. Orgasm, e.g. all, is the place to be. Qual Wall at the gov is pretty good too. Plus there's a fair amount of ice climbing to be found.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Yup,,,Balanced Rock wall is a heat magnet and sweet spot with a short hike too. As far as steep hills, I know there is a great angle slope off of the top of 'A' lift at Grand Geneva ski area. Actual skier recovery down that slope in the past by ski patrol has had some pretty hairy work to access someone on that steep when they've gone off the trail. But tools might be frowned upon at many areas due to hidden water lines that may be in the woods just under the snow that we could puncture with our cramps or tools used.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Sounds like a good time to finally hop on Watermarks.

Patrick · · Chicago, Il · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Watermarks and Der Glotz beat the tar out of me on Tuesday. Need to figure those out. Maybe Sunday

Patrick · · Chicago, Il · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0
Jay Knower wrote:DL can be awesome in the winter! Balanced Rock Wall is the warmest spot in the park. As long as the sun is shining, you should be able to climb there. A close second is Bedroom Amphitheater. Some of my best days at DL have been in the winter when the friction is great and there are fewer crowds. Plus, you feel pretty badass climbing when you know all your friends are home watching football and drinking beer.
Was able to hit balance rock wall on tuesday, excellent climbing and got to bask in the sun all day(after it burned off the fog). Hey, I want to say a HUGE thank you for the new guidebook. Beautifully done and can't get it out of my hands. Picked it up here in Chicago at First Ascent about a month ago. Again, excellent work and I'm sure you are rightfully proud of it.
Bradley Paul-Gorsline · · Bristol, WI · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 290

Climbed Cleo's and some other stuff in the area last Christmas when I was home (~38 degrees and so foggy we couldn't see Cleo's). It was cold, but it was fun and there was no one else out there.

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,056
Pat-agonia wrote: Was able to hit balance rock wall on tuesday, excellent climbing and got to bask in the sun all day(after it burned off the fog). Hey, I want to say a HUGE thank you for the new guidebook. Beautifully done and can't get it out of my hands. Picked it up here in Chicago at First Ascent about a month ago. Again, excellent work and I'm sure you are rightfully proud of it.
Thanks man!
Joel Allen · · La Crosse, WI · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 265

Climb year round! Even gumbys like me manage to climb winter! If you start feeling cold just stop be cold

Shea B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

How is it plugging gear in the winter? Anything to watch out for?

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,056
Shea B. wrote:How is it plugging gear in the winter? Anything to watch out for?
If it's sunny, the rock warms up enough that ice is rarely a problem. Make sure to be mindful of slipperyness at the top of the cliff though.

Here is a trick that makes rock climbing in the winter doable: At the start of the climbing day, deliberately freeze your hands. You could either do this on the first route, or by hanging for a long time off a cold jug. Don't put your hands in the snow, as you don't want to soften your skin. Your hands should be cold and dry. Once your hands have become frozen and numb, warm them up. Swing your arms around in order to force blood back into your hands. This instigates the "screaming barfies". Sure it's painful, but on the other side of that pain, your hands should be good and warm for the rest of the day.
Burton Lindquist · · Madison, WI · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 4,220

Ha! Yes ... on sunny winter days from about 25F and above you can get away with climbing on sunny exposures very nicely and easily. On the contrary.... DL quartzite will pretty much take on the same temps as the air around it so on cloudy cold days 40F and below it's like dry cold ice cubes on your finger-tips.
The big bright orb of death (or life) is key.

Doug Hemken · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 13,680

Creepers can be useful when the trails get icy.

Dan Locks · · IL · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

Creepers are something like Yak Trax? I haven't heard a generic term before.

I'm pretty sure you don't mean the first google hit:
tukshoes.com/collections/me…

ha!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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