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Winky and Waxman Go Bolting 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Merill Bitter, Robyn Waxman 1987
Page Views: 6,692
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 18, 2003

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Just enjoying a lap.


This is the short (3 bolt) problem on the west face, just past the pine tree. It protects well, and is a pump. On my first ascent, I almost couldn't open the draws at the top for the chains. Stay out of the crack to the right, and expect rock-solid forearms when you are done.


2 bolts atop, and 3 draws on the lead. A 5.4 scramble up the left-facing corner to the left will get you atop for the top-rope. But.... go for the lead, it is well worth it, and because of the nature of the rock, a fall is fun.

Photos of Winky and Waxman Go Bolting Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Myself at the top out.
Myself at the top out.
Rock Climbing Photo: A noble attempt on a lead deserves a noble reward
A noble attempt on a lead deserves a noble reward
Rock Climbing Photo: A boulder problem with a rope
A boulder problem with a rope
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway up
Midway up
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the top.
Pulling the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the finish.
Near the finish.
Rock Climbing Photo: Having a devil of a time clipping that 3rd bolt.
Having a devil of a time clipping that 3rd bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Loose Hold.  Take Care.
BETA PHOTO: Loose Hold. Take Care.
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway up the climb.  This was Adam's 1st 5.11.
Midway up the climb. This was Adam's 1st 5.11.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rick going for the lip.
Rick going for the lip.

Comments on Winky and Waxman Go Bolting Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 2, 2016
By Nathan Fisher
Apr 11, 2004

Just went up and did it again today. Be aware that the last left handhold, before the ledge is suspect. It seemed solid enough to me, but it is definitely loose.
By Matt Barrigar
Aug 12, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Feels like an 11a - because it is so short. Any idea if there is a rating on the v scale?
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 28, 2005

I heard that the "hold" is gone, but no more difficult.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 13, 2005

led it last night ... the "hold" is still there and feels the same as it did 2 years ago ... from what i remember
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 24, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

that 'hold' is still there and will probably be there for a good while...

just cause it is shaky doesn't mean everyone has to get all puckered...

hell, you might as well use it as a high left foot too!
By oliver
Jun 5, 2007

I would have a hard time calling that a 5.11 I would say the rating is around a 10c. Better rated as a boulder problem at V1. However rated though it is a enjoyable little problem to get on.
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Jun 13, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Bolt #3 is a bit loose on this guy.
By Ryan Peterson
From: North Salt Lake, Utah
Jun 30, 2007

Didn't seem too tough to me, third bolt is a spinner though, and I used that loose rock for a hold and it seemed fine.

Lost it at the top my first try, but mantled the second try and made it up. That mantle at the top makes it all worth it, great climb.
By Michael MacFadden
Aug 27, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

For those who think this is rated harder than it is, there are a bunch of chalk marks in the crack off to the right of the bolt line. If you use either the crack or the rock face to the right this climb is more like an 8.

If you do the sit start and climb the bolt line (as if you were leading) and stay out of the crack it definitely feels like 5.11 moves. Sure its short, but if you had a sustained 5.9 with this section, it would definitely be rated an 11.
By john richards
From: salt lake city UT
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I have a hard time calling this more than a 10c. dont get me wrong though FUN FUN FUN. skip the first bolt. If you fall above it your gonna hit the deck anyway.
By McRae Williams
May 15, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Fun short climb. Worth a run up. Not quite 11b, in my opinion it is a highball V2. Regardless, it is a fun little route.
By WasatchChic
From: Salt Lake, Utah
Aug 6, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

We usually link the Winky and Waxman line with the newer (meaning not in the guide)5.10'ish long line next to it. Anyone know if this has a name?
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Oct 24, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

OOOOOOH BOY. As of 10/24/08 the cool block that's loose is dead. Makes for a bit harder of a topout but geeze... that hold gave that route character. I'm bummed.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Oct 28, 2008

yeah, I couldn't believe the block is gone, the hole where it was is a big hold now, so it didn't seem any harder.
By Riddler
From: Centerville, UT
Nov 14, 2008

This is a pretty reasonable highball boulder problem, especially since you can get it wired on a rope first. Watch out for the back-breaking boulder at the bottom!
By Ty Meadows
From: Moab, UT
Jun 29, 2009

A scrimage heros' climb
By Mike Minson
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 2, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

V3 boulder problem if you sit start
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 2, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

V4 if you gaston L hand instead of going to the jug.
Sit start on routes: so hot right now...
By Peter Hayes
Jul 22, 2012

Referring to the '92 Ruckman guide, this route had a single bolt when it was first established, and the beta called for a hand full of RP's to protect. I'd suggest that one needs to try the ground-up onsight with this in mind to grasp the meaning of the original .11b rating. The "second" bolt was the original. As it stands today (easy protection), and in comparison to the other 11's nearby, I think the route is more in the .10c range, especially once one has the beta sussed. For a grade comparison, head over to the S-Curves and do "Black Monday", because that to me is benchmark for a BCC .11a. Just getting past the first bolt on that route has harder moves than anything on "Winky & Waxman Go Bolting"...that is, if you do not do the route as it was first done...
By zenetopia
Sep 18, 2012

There isn't a v3, let alone v4, move on this little line. Even on sit start (& not using the right corner)nothing is much harder then v1. Pretty fun to finish up the day though.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 18, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Time to update my previous comment: Sit start eliminate on routes: so hot right now...
You should go add a sit start to Condor in Ferguson. At least 6 people would downgrade it and/or shit a brick.
By Tyler Needham
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jan 23, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

There's absolutely a V2 move on this route (you just have to make sure not to go right). Very contrived but enjoyable. Essentially just a highball.
By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Jul 11, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

It's just a highball V1. Sit start didn't add difficulty. Did laps on this one. Forget about the rating and just have fun on this one!!
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Nov 27, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Agree on the V1. No way there is anything close to V4. Pretty easy once you get the sequence (but still a pumper). First bolt is pointless in my opinion. Crux for me was topping out as I was pretty pumped and there didnt seem to be any solid holds at the top. Definitely lap-able when you're tired at the end of the day. Stay away from the right crack and go up the face as intended.
By Sean Henry Scott IV
From: salt lake city, ut
Jun 8, 2014

If only this route went on for another 40 feet!!! Fantastic movement, pretty sustained, no real crux - other than the threat of decking. The discussion about a V grade for this is asinine, anyone who looks closely at the route can see there are at least 3 different variations all on the face itself and without using the arête (of course). I think those who boulder enough to know how grades feel and claim it's a V3 are right and so are those who claim it's a v1. However, if you really look at the holds and moves it's an 11b hahah...whatever that means. If your intimidated by ground fall, walk around and TR it, it's one of the coolest and most fun routes at the challenge buttress...and it flows. Now again if only it would go for another 40 feet!
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Jul 3, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

For someone who boulders v7 certainly you could understand that there isnt possibly a v3 move on this thing anywhere....
By Nick Meinzer
From: Mountain Green
Oct 4, 2014

I'm wondering if people who down grade this aren't starting from a sitting start. I feel this is necessary to make the grade and really should be in the description. I know I greased off this thing more times than I did White Collar Redneck (the other .11b I've climbed) and people seem to agree with that climbs rating.
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Apr 9, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Again, I dont belive a sit start adds any difficulty to the climb, just one more move. Pumpy and sustained, but too short to warrant an 11b raiting IMO. Climb Black Monday up at the S Curves to get an idea of what an 11a in BCC should be.
By Harrison Buck
From: Bow, NH
Apr 23, 2015
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Super fun boulder-like problem. 9/10 would recommend.
By dnaiscool
May 31, 2015

IMO...5.10c...max...Loads of fun packed into such a short route.
By ddriver
From: SLC
Jun 1, 2015

Read the comments circa 2008. When the block came off it made the route easier than before and the rating has not changed to reflect that.
By JSaarela
From: Park City
Aug 10, 2015

Bolts are spinning, couldn't seem to tighten them with the wrench on my nut tool. Falls are clean as long as your belayer doesn't have a huge amount of slack out.

Nice route to do at night as all the good holds are chalked to s***. Very fun movement, great pump, nice first route in the 5.11 range.
By Super Fluke
From: Earth
Aug 10, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

No way this is an 11b, its more or less a long V2 bouldering problem, at most a sustained 10b.
When we arrived the belay area was littered with trash, smelled of urine and a small fire was burned near. It will be a sad day when access gets restricted due to incompetence.
By Ken Noyce
From: Layton, UT
Jun 2, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I agree that this route isn't 5.11b, but I think the comment above by Super Fluke is kind of funny since a V2 equates to about 5.11a, so it's a V2 boulder problem, but no way it's harder than 5.10b, that makes a lot of sense!

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