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Wink Van Ripple TR 
Wizard's Hat, The T,TR 
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Unsorted Routes:

Wink Van Ripple 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 325
Submitted By: jim.dangle on Jul 10, 2013

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Wink Van Ripple is a really nice little slab line.

This is listed on MP as a variation to "No Bolt," but, having cleaned it off recently, it really goes as an independent line and is worthy of its own page. This may be the hardest route on this small section of cliff. There are several small holds but none are very good.

The lichen has been scrubbed, but it's still dusty and could use more scrubbing. The mossy bottom in current conditions (dank, muggy July) is rather slick.


Start left of the tree and right of the flake of no bolt. Use the nice rail/ripple for you hands and a short, vertical seam for your feet, then smear gently upward.

You will pass a bolt hole on your right during your tenuous journey upward.


Toprope this using the anchors for Rip Van Winkle.

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By jim.dangle
Jul 10, 2013

NB: In the 2nd edition of Boston Rocks, it's the 5.11 line that is called "No Bolt". That book contains a lot errors though, so who knows.

By jim.dangle
Apr 26, 2014

I upped the grade on this a little, because it getting cleaner and is remaining pretty hard. Unlike Slip Van Winkle, which has pretty defined crux, this remains tricky throughout. Still needs some cleaning though.

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