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Buzzards Roof
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bangin' Buzzards S 
Bound to Divide S 
Fiscal Cliff S 
Right in Two S 
Tradical buzzards T 
Wingspan S 

Wingspan 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Clint Walker
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 41
Submitted By: Clint Walker ATX on Jul 5, 2014

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Working the roof.

Description 

Technical beta mixed with a hint of height dependency (please prove me wrong on this) make for a fun romp up this short wall. Route goes up the center of the wall pulling the roof on protruding rock along the lip. Wingspan starts with a scramble up to the base of the triangle-shaped boulder. Play with the roof a bit and try not to think about the boulder underneath you. Burly moves get you past the lip and a thin finish on the mini-wave earns the anchors. Don't z-clip the 2nd bolt.

Belayer should stand down and to the right just under bolt 1 to minimize rope issues at the start.

R rating due to possible bad landing on boulder. Have a good belayer and a cool head @ bolt 4 and you'll be fine. Do not toprope this route. A bad fall onto the pointed boulder below can (did) happen.

During development while working the roof section my right hand popped out of the slot causing me to take a grounder onto the slanted boulder below. I struck at just the right angle as to not incur any injuries but I wouldn't say by any means that the feat is repeatable. DON'T TOP ROPE THIS ROUTE.

Location 

Center of Buzzard's roof. Look for the slanted triangle-shaped boulder. Route goes up and over the lip of the roof on a large block.

Protection 

4 bolts. Sport anchors.


Photos of Wingspan Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting the anchors on Wingspan.
Setting the anchors on Wingspan.
Rock Climbing Photo: Route topo
BETA PHOTO: Route topo

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