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Wings of Wax 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ian Cavanaugh
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 197
Submitted By: Ian Cavanaugh on May 11, 2015

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1: Short but fun sport pitch. Start at the base of the large crack/chimney, clip the first bolt and traverse left onto the face. follow the grove up until it is possible to exit out right and to the anchors

Pitch 2: Climb up the shallow corner above the anchor (gear) to the first bolt. Follow 3 bolts up and left on some killer crimps up the just over vert face. Traverse the crack out right (gear) until it is possible to pull over onto the slab. 3 more bolts of slab that will make you feel like Icarus, shoes melting off with each step higher.

Location 

This is the first route you will see on the west face when you approach the wall.

Protection 

pitch 1: 5 draws and chain anchor
pitch 2: 00-3 master cams, offset 00/0 and 1/2 are useful


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By Andrew Gerald Thaller
Jun 7, 2015

First Pitch is way cool. I onsighted it not sure what it is.

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