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Wings of Glory 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: RMWright, Fall 2012
New Route: Yes
Season: Typical of Empire
Page Views: 64
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 4, 2012

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Wings of Glory climbs on brilliant stone for two pitches. The moniker comes from a close encounter with the resident Golden Eagle that looked as big as a boxcar when he buzzed Mark and I near the top of King of the Mountain.

P1: 5.12, 90 feet, quickdraws only. Begin below the immaculate corner, and climb up through the dihedral to a perplexing block and hard layaway crux. Originally I was going to call the route Cubik's Rube for my persistent inability to solve this "cube" crux. This pitch becomes progressively more difficult until just below the anchor. It is excellent but hard.

P2: 5.11b/c, 60 feet, quickdraws only. Climb delicately past the large, scary looking block to a tricky, crimp crux. Finish on the bullet hard slab above. The climbing is continuous and needs some time and effort to locate the excellent holds that actually make up the climbing.


Wings of Glory is route "A" in the area photo, the left of two routes.


13 quickdraws and something for the double bolt anchors at the top of P1 and P2. Two raps to the ledge at the Eyrie Sector. The base belay is cams only, no base bolts.

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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 4, 2012

N.B.: I was unable to pry off the block at clip two on P2 using my standard crowbar. A long extension to the crowbar might work to get it off. I climbed cautiously around it without any particular trouble, but I did not use it. There are some good slots just around the block and great places for the feet that also avoid the block.

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